England and Canada: A Summer Tour Between Old and New Westminster, with Historical NotesFleming, Sandford
History
England and Canada: A Summer Tour Between Old and New Westminster, with Historical Notes
Fleming, Sandford
Canada -- Description and travel
The passengers begin to be clamorous for the next refreshment station.
We learn that it is at Rat Portage. We trust that the name does not
suggest the cheer we are to receive. There is an old tradition that the
Chinaman delighted in that rodent, and we all have read that during
the siege of Paris it was an established article of food. Rat Portage
is beginning to be an important place. It is situated where the waters
of the Lake of the Woods fall into the River Winnipeg. Four large saw
mills have been constructed here, and immense quantities of lumber have
been despatched to Winnipeg and the country beyond. At present Rat
Portage is the watering place for the City of Winnipeg. Gold mining has
been commenced, but it is a pursuit on which but little calculation can
be made.
For the moment there is excitement in the district, and many explorers
are engaged in examining the rocky ledges which crop out on the shore
and are exposed on the innumerable islands of the Lake of the Woods. It
is to be seen if this is a passing spasm or an assured success. When
some instance of individual good fortune in gold mining becomes known,
crowds for a time push forward eagerly, many desperately, on the path
which they impulsively trust is to lead them at once to fortune. Such
hopes are often built on imperfect foundations. The slightest reverse
depresses the sanguine gold-hunter, and the pursuit is most often
abandoned with the recklessness with which it was undertaken. How many
may with bitterness repeat the well known words of my countryman, John
Leyden, in his ode to an Indian gold coin:
“Slave of the mine, thy yellow light
Gleams baleful on the tomb fire drear.”
When the train came to a stand the proverbial rush for dinner was made.
No regular refreshment room could be found. In fact, none had yet
been erected. But there were several temporary shanties built around,
whose merits were loudly proclaimed by the several touts in a great
many words and the ringing of bells. We had made the acquaintance of
some New Zealand travellers on their way to see two sons settled in
Manitoba, and we agreed to take our dinner together. We selected one
of these establishments. Our recollections of Rat Portage are not
impressed by any excellence in its commissariat. That which was set
before us was execrable. I am not difficult to please, but there is
a lower depth in these matters. Such a meal would scarcely have been
palatable during the hunger of the siege of Paris, and a man could only
have swallowed what was given at Rat Portage when suffering the pangs
of starvation. There is evidently a call for improvement at this place
before the line is fully opened to travellers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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