Cathedrals -- England; England -- Description and travel
For me indeed the Downs, long as I have known them, remain most dear
as a spectacle, but this you will miss altogether if you are actually
upon them, lost amid their rolling waves of green turf with only the
sky and the wind and the sun for companions. Therefore when I set out
from Lewes to go westward I did not take the way up past the race-
course over the battlefield south of Mount Harry towards Ditchling
Camp and Beacon. Let me confess it, I followed the road. And what a
road! In all South England I know no other that offers the traveller
such a spectacle, where above him, in full view, that great rampart
stands up like a wall, peak speaks to peak, till presently with a
majesty and a splendour, not to be matched I think in our island,
Chanctonbury stands forth like a king crowned as with laurel towering
upon the horizon.
Now this road I followed passes westward out of Lewes and then turns
swiftly north, climbing as it goes, under the Downs beyond Offham,
turning west again under Mount Harry and so on past Courthouse Farm
and Plumpton church, which stands lonely in a field to the north of
the road, till suddenly by Westmaston church under Ditchling Beacon it
turns north again towards the Weald and enters the very notable
village of Ditchling. All that way is worth a king's ransom, for it
gives you all the steepness of the Downs upon their steepest side,
their sudden north escarpment, towering up over the Weald some seven
hundred feet or more. On a spring morning early I know no way more
joyful.
Ditchling Beacon itself stands some eight hundred and fifty feet above
the sea and is the highest point in all the range of the South Downs,
though it lacks the nobility of Chanctonbury. The earthworks here are
irregular and not very well defined, but there is a fine dewpound to
the east of the camp though perhaps this has not much antiquity, a
seemingly older depression now dry in the north-west corner is rather
an old rainwater ditch than a dewpound. Altogether it might seem that
Ditchling Camp was rather a refuge for cattle than a military
fortress.
Ditchling village is charming, with more than one old half-timber
house, and the church of St Margaret's is not only interesting in
itself, but, standing as it does upon rising ground and yet clear of
the great hills, it offers you one of the finest views of the Downs
anywhere to be had from the Weald. It consists of a cruciform building
of which the north transept and the north wall of the nave were
rebuilt in the thirteenth century. The chancel, however, has some
beautiful Early English work to show and the nave is rather plain
Transitional. The eastern window and most of the windows in the nave
are of the early Decorated period, the window in the south chancel
aisle being somewhat later.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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