Cathedrals -- England; England -- Description and travel
From Poynings in full view of Chanctonbury the beautiful road runs all
the way at the foot of the Downs to that great gap through which the
Adur seeks the sea, and which of old was guarded by Bramber Castle. On
the way it passes through the loveliest of villages, to wit, Edburton,
where in the Early English church of St Andrew is the second of the
three Norman fonts of lead within this county. The church is
altogether interesting, for if it is for the most part of the
thirteenth century, it has a charming Decorated eastern window
and it is said that Archbishop Laud himself presented the
pulpit and altar rails. What the two low side windows were for I
know not, but the chapel on the north was dedicated in honour of St
Catherine of Alexandria.
It was already dusk when I came out of Edburton church, the late dusk
of a day in early May; and so, liking the place passing well, I
determined to sleep there and soon found a hospitable cottage. In the
morning I liked the place better still, and remembering the "tarmac"
and the sophistication (alas!) of Steyning, I decided to stay where I
was two or three days and to visit thence a place in the Weald it had
long been my desire to see. And so having made up my mind, before
nine o'clock I set out on my way.
CHAPTER XIII
THE WEALD
There can be no one who has stood upon one of the great heights of the
Downs north and south, upon Ditchling Beacon, Chanctonbury or Leith
Hill, who, looking across the Weald, has not wondered what this
country, lying between the two great chalk ranges, might be, what is
its nature and its history and what part it has played in the great
story of England. For even to the superficial onlooker it seems to
differ essentially not only from the great chalk Downs upon which he
stands, but from any other part of England known to him. It lies,
thickly sprinkled with scattered and isolated woodlands, a mighty
trench between the heights, not a vast plain but an uneven lowland
diversified by higher land but without true hills, and roughly divided
west and east into two parts by a great ridge known by various names,
but in its greater part called the Forest, St Leonard's Forest,
Ashdown Forest, Dallington Forest, and so forth. This country which we
know as the Weald is obviously bounded north and south by the Downs
which enclose it, as they do, too, upon the west, where between
Winchester and Petersfield and Selborne the two ranges narrow and
meet. Thence, indeed, the Weald spreads eastward in an ever widening
delta till it is lost in the marshes and the sea.
Such is the aspect of this great country as we see it to-day from any
of the heights north and south of it; but what is its true character
and what is its history?
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