Cathedrals -- England; England -- Description and travel
And at any rate, even though you may not agree with me so far, in this
at least I shall carry you with me, when I say that this monastery,
and especially because it is Carthusian, bears out the old character
of the Weald and endorses it. I have said the Weald was ever a wild
and inhuman place where only few men could go together, without great
towns and with only infrequent villages; not a thick or impenetrable
woodland but a difficult and a lonely country sparsely scattered with
steadings. Well, it is such places that the Carthusians have ever
sought out for their houses, such was Witham and such was the Grande
Chartreuse also. That a Carthusian monastery should have been founded
to-day in the midst of the Weald proves, if anything can, that it has
not yet wholly lost its character.
CHAPTER XIV
TO ARUNDEL AND CHICHESTER
From my little quiet retreat at Edburton, I set out one May morning to
follow the road under the Downs, through Steyning for Arundel and
Chichester, because it is one of the fairest ways in all the world,
and, rightly understood, one of the most interesting. And to begin
with, I found myself crossing one of those gaps in the South Downs,
each of which is held by a castle. The one I now crossed was that made
by the Adur, and it was held by the Castle of Bramber.
Now Bramber, merely beautiful to-day, must in the old times always have
been of importance, for it holds an easy road through the rampart of
the Downs, one of the great highways into Normandy, because of the
harbour of Shoreham at the mouth of the Adur, one of the principal
ports upon this coast. Of immemorial antiquity, the harbour of
Shoreham, first of Old Shoreham, perhaps the Roman Portus Adurni, and
then when that silted up of New, has played always a great part in the
history of South England. That the Romans knew and used it is certain.
It was probably here that the Saxon Ella and his three sons Cymne,
Cissa, and Wlencing, landed in 477, and it is not likely that it was
neglected by the Normans, who, in fact, built here a very noble
cruciform church, dark and solemn, indeed, rather a fortress than a
church. It was at Shoreham certainly that John landed when he returned
to England to make himself king after the death of Coeur de Lion, and
we may gather some idea of the real importance of the port from the
fact that it furnished Edward III. with twenty-six ships for his fleet
in 1346. Thereafter the place declined, but history repeated itself
when Charles II., in flight in 1651 and anxious to reach the French
coast, set out from Shoreham and landed at Fécamp. Shoreham thus was
an important way in and out of England, but the road by which it lived
was not in its keeping at all, but in the power of the Castle of
Bramber which dominated and held it on the north side of the Downs,
where it issued out of the pass or gap made by the Adur.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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