Cathedrals -- England; England -- Description and travel
To come out of the sloping High Street past the ancient city Cross,
through the narrow passage-way into the precincts, and to pass down
that great avenue of secular limes across the Close to the great porch
of the Cathedral, is to come by an incomparable approach to perhaps the
most noble and most venerable church left to us in England. The most
venerable--not I think the most beautiful. No one remembering the Abbey
of Westminster can claim that for it, and then, though it possesses the
noblest Norman work in England and the utmost splendour of the
Perpendicular, it lacks almost entirely and certainly the best of the
Early English. Its wonder lies in its size and its antiquity. It is now
the longest mediaeval church not only in England, but in Europe, though
once it was surpassed by old St Paul's. It is five hundred and twenty-
six feet long, but it lacks height, and perhaps rightly, at least I
would not have it other than it is, its greatness lying in its
monotonous depressed length and weight, an enormous primeval thing
lying there in the meads beside the river. Winchester itself might seem
indeed to know nothing of it. The city does not rejoice in it as do
Lincoln and York in their great churches; here is nothing of the sheer
joy of Salisbury, a Magnificat by Palestrina; the church of Winchester
is without delight, it has supremely the mystery and monotony of the
plainsong, the true chant of the monks, the chorus of an army, with all
the appeal of just that, its immense age and half plaintive glory,
which yet never really becomes music.
And Winchester, too, has all and more than all, the surprise of the
plainsong; the better you know it the more you are impressed. No one
certainly has ever come by the narrow way out of the High Street, down
the avenue of limes to the West Front without being disappointed; but
no one thus disappointed has ever entered into the church without
astonishment, wonder and complete satisfaction. It was not always so.
That long nave was once forty feet longer and was flanked upon either
side by a Norman tower as at Ely. Must one regret their loss? No, the
astonishment of the nave within makes up for everything; there is no
grander interior in the world, nor anywhere anything at all like it. Up
that vast Perpendicular nave one looks far and far away into the
height, majesty and dominion of the glorious Norman transept, and
beyond into the light of the sanctuary. It has not the beauty of
Westminster Abbey, nor the exquisite charm of Wells, but it has a
majesty and venerable nobility all its own that I think no other church
in England can match.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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