Cathedrals -- England; England -- Description and travel
The church dedicated in honour of Our Lady is of some antiquity in the
main and older parts, a work of the fourteenth century replacing
doubtless Roman, Saxon and Norman buildings, but with later additions,
too, of the Perpendicular time in the clerestory, for instance, and
with much modern work in the chancel. Of old the place belonged to the
alien Priory of Throwley in this county, itself a cell of the Abbey of
St Omer, in Artois; but when these alien houses were suppressed,
Chilham like Throwley itself went to the new house of Syon, founded by
the King. To-day, apart from the English beauty of the church, not a
work of art but of history, its chief interest lies in its monuments,
some strangely monstrous, of the Digges family--Sir Dudley Digges
bought Chilham at the beginning of the seventeenth century--the
Colebrooks, who followed the Digges in 1751 and a Fogg and a Woldman,
the latter holding Chilham until 1860. There is little to be said of
these monuments save that they are none of them in very good taste,
the more interesting being those to Lady Digges, and a member of the
Fogg family, both of the early seventeenth century, in which the
Purbeck has been covered with a charming arabesque and diapered
pattern in relief.
[Illustration: CHILHAM]
But it was not the church, beautiful though I found it on that
afternoon of spring, that made me linger in Chilham, but rather the
castle, which occupies the site of a Roman camp; and perhaps of what a
camp? It may be that it was here Caesar lay on the first night of his
resumed march after the disaster of the ships. It may be that it was
here, after all, that Quintus Laberius fell, and that here he was
buried so that the ancient earthwork known as Julaber's Grave, though
certainly far older than Caesar, was in fact used as the tomb of the
hero whose immortality Caesar insured by naming him in his
Commentaries. Who knows? If Julaber is not a corruption of Laberius as
the old antiquaries asserted, and as the people here about believe,
one likes to think it might be, for no other explanation of this
strange name is forthcoming.
So I went on through King's wood, and as I came out of it southward I
saw a wonderful thing. For I saw before me that division or part of
the world which stands quite separate from any other and is not
Europe, Asia, Africa nor America, but Romney Marsh. It lay there
under the sunset half lost in its own mists, far off across the near
meadows of the Weald, for I was now upon the southern escarpment of
the North Downs and in the foreground rose the town of Ashford where
I was to sleep. It was twilight and more, however, before I reached
it, for in those woods I heard for the first time that year the
nightingale, and my heart, which all day had been full of Rome, was
suddenly changed, so that I went down through the dusk to Ashford,
singing an English song:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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