Cathedrals -- England; England -- Description and travel
I went under a fine rain on a day of married white and blue, and even
before I had forgot Ashford, which was long before I crossed the Stour,
the rain had ceased, the sun shone forth and a great wind came out of
the marsh and the sea full of good tidings, so that climbing up to
Great Chart I laughed in my heart to be in England on such a day and on
such a road.
Great Chart, as I saw while still far off, is a village typical of this
country that I love, if indeed a place so completely itself is typical
of anything: a little English village, but it outfaces the whole world
in its sureness of itself, its quietness and air of immemorial
antiquity. Many a city older by far looks parvenu beside Great Chart.
Let us consider, with tears if you will, what they are making of Rome
and be thankful that our ways are not their ways. For what wins you at
once in Great Chart is the obvious fact that it has always stood there
on its hill over the Weald, and as far as one may see at a glance, much
the same as it stands to-day. And what delights you is the church there
on the highest ground, on the last hill overlooking the great Weald, a
sign in the sky, a portent, a necessary thing natural to the landscape.
What you see is a rectangular building with three eastern gables over
three Decorated windows, a long nave roof over square Perpendicular
windows and clerestory, flat outer roofs and tall western Tower, a
noble thing significant of our civilisation and the Faith out of which
it has come.
Within, one finds a church like and yet unlike that at Ashford. Nave
and chancel are of the same width, and the arcades run from end to end
of the church really without a break, though half way a wall, borne by
three arches, crosses the church separating the chancel and its
chapels from the nave. The central arch of the three is of course the
chancel arch, but the wall it bears does not reach to the roof so that
the nave, clerestory and roof are seen running on beyond it. All this
is curious rather than lovely, but like every other strangeness in
England of my heart, it is to be explained by the long, long history
of things still--Deo gratias--remaining to us, so that when I said
that our buildings were growths rather than works of art I spoke
truth.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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