England, Picturesque and Descriptive: A Reminiscence of Foreign TravelCook, Joel
History
England, Picturesque and Descriptive: A Reminiscence of Foreign Travel
Cook, Joel
England -- Description and travel
abbey was afterwards built. His martyrdom did not save Amphibalus, who
was soon captured and put to death at Redburn, a few miles away, where
his relics were afterwards discovered and enshrined, like those of his
pupil, in the abbey.
[Illustration: OLD WALL AT VERULAM.]
[Illustration: MONASTERY GATE.]
[Illustration: THE TOWER OF THE ABBEY.]
[Illustration: STAIRCASE TO WATCHING-GALLERY.]
The sacrifice of the protomartyr brought its fruits. Verulam became
Christian, and within a century was paying him the honors of a saint. In
the eighth century King Offa of Mercia, having treacherously murdered
King Ethelbert, became conscience-stricken, and to propitiate Heaven
founded the abbey. He built a Benedictine monastery, which was richly
endowed, and gradually attracted the town away from Verulam and over to
its present site. This monastery existed until the Norman Conquest, when
it was rebuilt, the ruins of Verulam serving as a quarry. Thus began the
great abbey of St. Albans, which still overlooks the Ver, although it
has been materially altered since. It prospered greatly, and the close
neighborhood to London brought many pilgrims as well as royal visits.
The abbots were invested with great powers and became dictatorial and
proud, having frequent contests with the townsfolk; and it is recorded
that one young man who applied for admission to the order, being refused
on account of his ignorance, went abroad and ultimately became Pope
Adrian IV. But he bore the abbot no ill-will, afterwards granting it
many favors. Cardinal Wolsey was once the abbot, but did not actively
govern it. In 1539 its downfall came, and it surrendered to King Henry
VIII. The deed of surrender, signed by thirty-nine monks, is still
preserved, and the seal is in the British Museum. The abbey is now in
ruins; the church and gateway remain, but the great group of buildings
that composed it has mostly disappeared, so that the old monastery is
almost as completely effaced as Verulam. But the church, by being bought
for $2000 for the St. Albans parish church, is still preserved, and is
one of the most interesting ecclesiastical structures in England; yet
its great length and massive central tower are rather unfavorable to its
picturesqueness, though the tower when seen from a distance impresses by
its grandeur and simplicity. In this tower, as well as in other parts of
the church, can be detected the ancient bricks from Verulam. The
ground-plan of St. Albans Church is a Latin cross, and it is five
hundred and forty-eight feet long. The western part was erected in the
twelfth, and the greater portion of the nave and choir in the thirteenth
century. The floor of the choir is almost paved with sepulchral slabs,
though of the two hundred monuments the church once contained barely a
dozen remain. At the back of the high altar was the great treasury of
the abbey, the shrine enclosing St. Alban's relics, but this was
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