England, Picturesque and Descriptive: A Reminiscence of Foreign TravelCook, Joel
History
England, Picturesque and Descriptive: A Reminiscence of Foreign Travel
Cook, Joel
England -- Description and travel
In the earlier days of Christianity the solitudes in this Fenland had
peculiar attractions for the hermits who fled from the world to embrace
an ascetic life. Thus the islands each gradually got its hermit, and the
great monasteries grew up by degrees, starting usually in the cell of
some recluse. Guthlac, who lived in the seventh century, was of the
royal House of Mercia, and voluntarily exiled himself in the Fens. This
region was then, according to popular belief, the haunt of myriads of
evil spirits, who delighted in attacking the hermits. They assaulted
Guthlac in hosts, disturbed him by strange noises, once carried him far
away to the icy regions of the North, and not seldom took the form of
crows, the easier to torment him; but his steady prayers and penance
ultimately put them to flight, and the existence of his cell became
known to the world. Ethelbald fled to Guthlac for refuge, and the hermit
predicted he would become king, which in time came to pass. Guthlac died
at Crowland, and the grateful king built a stone church there. The
buildings increased, their great treasure being of course the tomb of
the hermit, which became a source of many miracles. The Northmen in the
ninth century plundered and destroyed Crowland, but it was restored, and
in Edward the Confessor's time was one of the five religious houses
ruled by the powerful abbot of Peterborough. It became the shrine of
Waltheof, the Earl of Northampton beheaded for opposing William the
Conqueror, and Crowland was thus made a stronghold of English feeling
against the Normans, like the other monasteries of the Fens. Its fame
declined somewhat after the Conquest, though its hospitality was fully
maintained. It had little subsequent history. The abbey was garrisoned
by the Royalists, and captured by Cromwell in 1643, after which it fell
into ruin. Such has been the fate of almost all the religious houses in
the Fens, the merits of which the people in the olden time judged
according to a local rhyme which yet survives:
"Ramsay, the bounteous of gold and of fee;
Crowland, as courteous as courteous may be;
Spalding the rich, and Peterborough the proud;
Sawtrey, by the way, that poor abbaye,
Gave more alms in one day than all they."
NORWICH.
Proceeding eastward out of the Fenland and among the hills of Norfolk,
the little river Wensum is found to have cut a broad, deep, and
trench-like valley into the chalk and gravel plateau. Upon the elevated
bank of the river is the irregularly picturesque town of Norwich, with
the castle keep rising above the undulating mass of buildings, and the
cathedral and its noble spire overtopping the lower portion of the city
on the right hand. Norwich is an ancient town, but very little is known
with certainty about it anterior to the Danish invasions. We are told
that its original location was at the more southerly castle of Caister,
whence the inhabitants migrated to the present site, for--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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