The very wide breeches known as trunks were worn by nearly everybody
in the early part of the reign, until they vied with Venetian breeches
for fashion. They were sometimes made of a series of wide bands of
different colours placed alternately; sometimes they were of bands,
showing the stuffed trunk hose underneath. They were stuffed with
anything that came handy--wool, rags, or bran--and were of such
proportions that special seats were put in the Houses of Parliament
for the gentlemen who wore them. The fashion at its height appears to
have lasted about eight years.
[Illustration: A MAN OF THE TIME OF ELIZABETH (1558-1603)
He wears a double linen collar, nearly as usual at this time as
the ruff. His trunk hose will be seen through the openings of his
trunks. His boots are held up by two leather straps. His cloak is
an Italian fashion.]
The Venetian breeches were very full at the top and narrowed to the
knee; they were slashed and puffed, or paned like lattice windows with
bars of coloured stuffs or gold lace.
The French breeches were tight and ruffled in puffs about the thighs.
The stockings were of yarn, or silk, or wool. They were gartered about
the knee, and pulled up over the breeches; but the man most proud of
his leg wore no garters, but depended on the shape of his leg and the
fit of his stocking to keep the position. These stockings were sewn
with clocks at the ankles, and had various patterns on them, sometimes
of gold or silver thread. Openwork stockings were known.
[Illustration: {A man of the time of Elizabeth}]
The stockings and breeches were called, if the breeches were short and
the stockings all the way up the leg, trunk hose and trunks; if the
breeches came to the knee and the stockings just came over them, they
were known as upper stocks and nether stocks.
The shoes were shaped to the foot, and made of various leathers or
stuffs; a rose of ribbon sometimes decorated the shoes. There were
shoes with high cork soles called moyles. Of course, there were
gallants who did things no one else thought of doing--wearing very
square-toed shoes, for instance, or cock feathers in their hair.
The sturtops were boots to the ankle.
[Illustration: {Three types of hat for men; three type of breeches
and stockings}]
As for the hair, we have the love-lock tied with ribbons, the very
same that we see caricatured in the wigs of clown and pantaloon. We
have, also, hair left fairly long and brushed straight back from the
forehead, and short-cropped hair. Beards and moustaches are worn by
most.
They wore little cloaks covered with embroidery, lace, sometimes even
with pearls. For winter or for hard travelling the jornet or loose
cloak was worn.
The older and more sedate wore long stuff gowns with hanging sleeves;
these gowns, made to fit at the waist and over the trunks, gave an
absurd Noah's ark-like appearance to the wearers. Those who cared
nothing for the fashions left their gowns open and wore them loose.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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