A custom arrived of wearing boots more frequently, and there was the tall, square-toed, high-heeled boot, fitting up the leg to just below the knee, without a turnover; the stiff, thick leather, blacking boot with broad, stiff tops, also not turned back; and there was also the result of the extraordinary melting, crumpled dismissal of all previous stiffness, whereby the old tall boot drooped down until it turned over and fell into a wide cup, all creases and wrinkles, nearly over the foot, while across the instep was a wide, shaped flap of leather. This last falling boot-top was turned in all manner of ways by those who cared to give thought to it. [Illustration: {Sixteen types of boot and shoe}] [Illustration: A MAN OF THE TIME OF CHARLES I. (1625-1649) He has wrapped his blue cloak over his arm, a usual method of carrying the cloak. He is simply dressed, without bunches of ribbons or points.] The insides of the tops of these boots were lined with lace or silk, and the dandy turned them down to give full show to the lining--this turning of broad tops was such an inconvenience that he was forced to use a straddled walk when he wore his boots thus. Canes were carried with gold, silver, or bone heads, and were ornamented further by bunches of ribbon. Coming again to the head, we find ribbon also in use to tie up locks of hair; delicate shades of ribbon belonging to some fair lady were used to tie up locks to show delicate shades of love. Some men wore two long love-locks on either side of the face, others wore two elaborately-curled locks on one side only. The hats, as the drawings will show, are broad in the brim and of an average height in the crown, but a dandy, here and there, wore a hat with next to no brim and a high crown. Most hats were feathered. There is a washing tally in existence of this time belonging, I think, to the Duke of Rutland, which is very interesting. It is made of beech-wood covered with linen, and is divided into fifteen squares. In the centre of each square there is a circle cut, and in the circle are numbers. Over the number is a plate with a pin for pivot in the centre, a handle to turn, and a hole to expose a number. Above each circle are the names of the articles in this order: Ruffs. Bandes. Cuffes. Handkercher. Cappes. Shirtes. Halfshirts. Boote Hose. Topps. Sockes. Sheetes. Pillowberes. Table Clothes. Napkins. Towells. Topps are linen boot-frills, and halfshirts are stomachers. There remains little to be said except that black was a favourite dress for men, also light blue and cream-coloured satin. Bristol paste diamonds were in great demand, and turquoise rings were very fashionable. For the rest, Vandyck's pictures are available to most people, or good reproductions of them, and those, with a knowledge of how such dress came into being, are all that can be needed. THE WOMEN