These powdered Absaloms could change themselves into very fine
fighting creatures, and look twice as sober again when occasion
demanded. They rode about the country in periwigs, certainly, but not
quite so bushy and curled; many of them took to the travelling or
campaign wig with the dildos or pole-locks. These wigs were full over
the ears and at the sides of the forehead, but they were low in the
crown, and the two front ends were twisted into single pipes of hair;
or the pipes of hair at the side were entirely removed, and one single
pipe hung down the back. The custom of thus twisting the hair at the
back, and there holding it with a ribbon, gave rise to the later
pigtail. The periwigs so altered were known as short bobs, the bob
being the fullness of the hair by the cheeks of the wig.
[Illustration: {A man of the time of William and Mary}]
The cuffs of the coat-sleeve varied to the idea and taste of the owner
of the coat; sometimes the sleeve was widened at the elbow to 18
inches, and the cuffs, turned back to meet the sleeves, were wider
still. Two, three, or even more buttons held the cuff back.
The pockets on the coats were cut vertically and horizontally, and
these also might be buttoned up. Often the coat was held by only two
centre buttons, and the waistcoat flaps were not buttoned at all. The
men's and women's muffs were small, and often tied and slung with
ribbons.
[Illustration: {A man of the time of William and Mary}]
Plain round riding-coats were worn, fastened by a clasp or a couple of
large buttons.
The habit of tying the neckcloth in a bow with full hanging ends was
dying out, and a more loosely tied cravat was being worn; this was
finished with fine lace ends, and was frequently worn quite long.
[Illustration: {Three men of the time of William and Mary}]
Stockings were pulled over the knee, and were gartered below and
rolled above it.
The ordinary citizen wore a modified edition of these clothes--plain
in cut, full, without half the number of buttons, and without the
tremendous periwig, wearing merely his own hair long.
For convenience in riding, the skirts of the coats were slit up the
back to the waist; this slit could be buttoned up if need be.
[Illustration: {A man of the time of William and Mary; a shoe}]
Now, let us give the dandy of this time his pipe, and let him go in
peace. Let us watch him stroll down the street, planting his high
heels carefully, to join two companions outside the tobacco shop.
Here, by the great carved wood figure of a smoking Indian with his
kilt of tobacco leaves, he meets his fellows. From the hoop hung by
the door one chooses a pipe, another asks for a quid to chew and a
spittoon, the third calls for a paper of snuff newly rasped. Then they
pull aside the curtains and go into the room behind the shop, where,
seated at a table made of planks upon barrels, they will discuss the
merits of smoking, chewing, and snuffing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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