He tells me that in Norfolk, where he has come from, the hoop has not
come into fashion; that ladies there dress much as they did before
Queen Anne came to the throne. The fontage is lower, perhaps, the
waist may be longer, but skirts are full and have long trains, and are
gathered in loops to show the petticoat of silk with its deep
double row of flounces. Aprons are worn long, and have good pockets.
Cuffs are deep, but are lowered to below the elbow. The bodice of the
gown is cut high in the back and low in front, and is decked with a
deep frill of lace or linen, which allows less bare neck to show than
formerly. A very observant gentleman! 'But you have seen the new
hoop?' I ask him. Yes, he has seen it. As he rode into town he noticed
that the old fashions gave way to new, that every mile brought the
fontage lower and the hair more hidden, until short curls and a little
cap of linen or lace entirely replaced the old high head-dress and the
profusion of curls on the shoulders. The hoop, he noticed, became
larger and larger as he neared the town, and the train grew shorter,
and the patterns on the under-skirt grew larger with the hoop.
[Illustration: {A woman of the time of Anne}]
I leave my gentleman from the country and I stroll about the streets
to regard the fashions. Here, I see, is a gentleman in one of the new
Ramillies wigs--a wig of white hair drawn back from the forehead and
puffed out full over the ears. At the back the wig is gathered into a
long queue, the plaited or twisted tail of a wig, and is ornamented at
the top and bottom of the queue with a black bow.
[Illustration: {Ramillies wig; Black Steenkirk; a hat for men}]
I notice that this gentleman is dressed in more easy fashion than
some. His coat is not buttoned, the flaps of his waistcoat are not
over big, his breeches are easy, his tie is loose. I know where this
gentleman has stepped from; he has come straight out of a sampler of
mine, by means of which piece of needlework I can get his story
without book. I know that he has a tremendous periwig at home covered
with scented powder; I know that he has an elegant suit with fullness
of the skirts, at his sides gathered up to a button of silver gilt;
there is plenty of lace on this coat, and deep bands of it on the
cuffs. He has also, I am certain, a cane with an amber head very
curiously clouded, and this cane he hangs on to his fifth button by a
blue silk ribbon. This cane is never used except to lift it up at a
coachman, hold it over the head of a drawer, or point out the
circumstances of a story. Also, he has a single eyeglass, or
perspective, which he will advance to his eye to gaze at a toast or an
orange wench.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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