There are many ways of making the steeple head-dress. For the most
part they are long, black-covered steeples, resting at an angle of
forty-five degrees to the head, the broad end having a deep velvet
band round it, with hanging sides, which come to the level of the
chin; the point end has a long veil attached to it, which floats
lightly down, or is carried on to one shoulder. Sometimes this steeple
hat is worn over a hood, the cape of which is tucked into the dress.
Some of these hats have a jutting, upturned piece in front, and they
are also covered with all manner of coloured stuffs, but not commonly
so. All persons having an income of L10 a year and over will have that
black velvet loop, the frontlet, sewn into their hats. There is
another new shape for hats, varying in height from 8 to 18 inches. It
is a cylinder, broader at the top than the bottom, the crown sometimes
flat and sometimes rounded into the hat itself; this hat is generally
jewelled, and covered with rich material. The veils are attached to
these hats in several ways; either they float down behind from the
centre of the crown of the hat, or they are sewn on to the base
of the hat, and are supported on wires, so as to shade the face,
making a roof over it, pointed in front and behind, or flat across the
front and bent into a point behind, or circular. Take two circles of
wire, one the size of the base of your hat and the other larger, and
dress your linen or thin silk upon them; then you may pinch the wire
into any variations of squares and circles you please.
[Illustration: A WOMAN OF THE TIME OF EDWARD IV. (1461-1483)
She wears the high hennin from which hangs a wisp of linen. On her
forehead is the velvet frontlet, and across her forehead is a veil
stretched on wires.]
The veil was sometimes worn all over the steeple hat, coming down over
the face, but stiff enough to stand away from it. Towards the end of
the reign the hats were not so high or so erect.
Remember, also, that the horned head-dress of the previous reign is
not by any means extinct.
[Illustration: {A woman of the time of Edward IV.}]
There remain two more forms of making the human face hideous: one is
the head-dress closely resembling an enormous sponge bag, which for
some unknown reason lasted well into the reign of Henry VII. as a
variety to the fashionable head-gear of that time, and the other is
very simple, being a wimple kept on the head by a circular stuffed
hoop of material, which showed, plain and severe across the forehead.
The simple folk wore a hood of linen, with a liripipe and wide
ear-flaps.
[Illustration: {A woman of the time of Edward IV.}]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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