The blunt shoes have come into fashion, and with this the old
long-peaked shoe dies for ever. Common-sense will show you that the
gentlemen who had leisure to hunt in these times did not wear their
most foppish garments, that the tunics were plain, the boots high, the
cloaks of strong material. They wore a hunting-hat, with a long
peak over the eyes and a little peak over the neck at the back; a
broad band passed under the chin, and, buttoning on to either side of
the hat, kept it in place. The peasant wore a loose tunic, often
open-breasted and laced across; he had a belt about his waist, a hood
over his head, and often a broad-brimmed Noah's Ark hat over the hood;
his slops, or loose trousers, were tied below the knee and at the
ankles. A shepherd would stick his pipe in his belt, so that he might
march before his flock, piping them into the fold.
[Illustration: {A man of the time of Edward V. and Richard III.;
a hat}]
To sum up, you must picture a man in a dress of Edward IV.'s time,
modified, or, rather, expanded or expanding into the costume of Henry
VII.'s time--a reign, in fact, which hardly has a distinct costume to
itself--that is, for the men--but has a hand stretched out to two
centuries, the fifteenth and the sixteenth; yet, if I have shown the
man to you as I myself can see him, he is different from his father in
1461, and will change a great deal before 1500.
THE WOMEN
[Illustration: {A woman of the time of Edward V. and Richard III.}]
Here we are at the end of an epoch, at the close of a costume period,
at one of those curious final dates in a history of clothes which says
that within a year or so the women of one time will look hopelessly
old-fashioned and queer to the modern woman. Except for the peculiar
sponge-bag turban, which had a few years of life in it, the woman in
Henry VII.'s reign would look back at this time and smile, and the
young woman would laugh at the old ideas of beauty. The River of Time
runs under many bridges, and it would seem that the arches were low to
the Bridge of Fashion in 1483, and the steeple hat was lowered to
prevent contact with them. The correct angle of forty-five degrees
changed into a right angle, the steeple hat, the hennin, came toppling
down, and an embroidered bonnet, perched right on the back of the
head, came into vogue. It is this bonnet which gives, from our point
of view, distinction to the reign. It was a definite fashion, a
distinct halt. It had travelled along the years of the fourteenth
century, from the wimple and the horns, and the stiff turbans, and the
boxes of stiffened cloth of gold; it had languished in the caul and
blossomed in the huge wimple-covered horns; it had shot up in the
hennin; and now it gave, as its last transformation, this bonnet at
the back of the head, with the stiff wimple stretched upon wires. Soon
was to come the diamond-shaped head-dress, and after that the birth of
hair as a beauty.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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