England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
I hoped, on the occasion of which I am now speaking, that the attack
would not be acute, and indeed for the first five minutes I flattered
myself that this was the case. In the beautiful grassy court of the
castle, on my entrance, there were not more than eight or ten fellow
intruders. There were a couple of old ladies on a bench, eating
something out of a newspaper; there was a dissenting minister, also on
a bench, reading the guide-book aloud to his wife and sister-in-law;
there were three or four children pushing each other up and down the
turfy hillocks. This was sweet seclusion indeed; and I got a capital
start with the various noble square-windowed fragments of the stately
pile. They are extremely majestic, with their even, pale-red colour,
their deep-green drapery, their princely vastness of scale. But
presently the tranquil ruin began to swarm like a startled hive. There
were plenty of people, if they chose to show themselves. They emerged
from crumbling doorways and gaping chambers with the best conscience
in the world; but I know not, after all, why I should bear them a
grudge, for they gave me a pretext for wandering about in search of a
quiet point of view. I cannot say that I found my point of view, but
in looking for it I saw the castle, which is certainly an admirable
ruin. And when the respectable young woman had let me out of the gate
again, and I had shaken my head at the civil-spoken pedlars who form
a little avenue for the arriving and departing visitor, I found it in
my good nature to linger a moment on the trodden, grassy slope, and to
think that in spite of the hawkers, the paupers, and the beer-shops,
there was still a good deal of old England in the scene. I say in
spite of these things, but it may have been, in some degree, because
of them. Who shall resolve into its component parts any impression of
this richly complex English world, where the present is always seen,
as it were, in profile, and the past presents a full face? At all
events the solid red castle rose behind me, towering above its small
old ladies and its investigating parsons; before me, across the patch
of common, was a row of ancient cottages, black-timbered, red-gabled,
pictorial, which evidently had a memory of the castle in its better
days. A quaintish village straggled away on the right, and on the left
the dark, fat meadows were lighted up with misty sun-spots and browsing
sheep. I looked about for the village stocks; I was ready to take the
modern vagrants for Shakespearean clowns; and I was on the point of
going into one of the ale-houses to ask Mrs. Quickly for a cup of sack.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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