England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
After a while it grew too dark for lawn-tennis; but while the twilight
was still mildly brilliant I wandered away, out of the grounds of
the charming parsonage, and turned into the little churchyard beside
it. The small weather-worn, rust-coloured church had an appearance
of high antiquity; there were some curious Norman windows in the
apse. Unfortunately I could not get inside; I could only glance into
the open door across the interval of an old-timbered, heavy-hooded,
padlocked porch. But the sweetest evening stillness hung over the
place, and the sunset was red behind a dark row of rook-haunted elms.
The stillness seemed the greater because three or four rustic children
were playing, with little soft cries, among the crooked, deep-buried
grave-stones. One poor little girl, who seemed deformed, had climbed
some steps that served as a pedestal for a tall, mediæval-looking
cross. She sat perched there and stared at me through the gloaming.
This was the heart of England, unmistakeably; it might have been the
very pivot of the wheel on which her fortune revolves. One need not be
a rabid Anglican to be extremely sensible of the charm of an English
country church—and indeed of some of the features of an English rural
Sunday. In London there is a certain flatness in the observance of this
festival; but in the country some of the ceremonies that accompany
it have an indefinable harmony with an ancient, pastoral landscape.
I made this reflection on an occasion that is still very fresh in my
memory. I said to myself that the walk to church from a beautiful
country-house, of a lovely summer afternoon, may be the prettiest
possible adventure. The house stands perched upon a pedestal of rock
and looks down from its windows and terraces upon a shadier spot
in the wooded meadows, of which the blunted tip of a spire explains
the character. A little company of people, whose costume denotes the
highest pitch of civilisation, winds down through the blooming gardens,
passes out of a couple of small gates, and reaches the footpath in
the fields. This is especially what takes the fancy of the sympathetic
stranger; the level, deep-green meadows, studded here and there with
a sturdy oak; the denser grassiness of the footpath, the lily-sheeted
pool beside which it passes, the rustic stiles, where he stops and
looks back at the great house and its wooded background. It is in the
highest degree probable that he has the privilege of walking with a
pretty girl, and it is morally certain that he thinks a pretty English
girl the very type of the maddening magic of youth. He knows that she
doesn’t know how lovely is this walk of theirs; she has been taking
it—or taking another quite as good—any time these twenty years. But her
want of immediate intelligence only makes her the more a part of his
delicate entertainment. The latter continues unbroken while they reach
the little churchyard and pass up to the ancient porch, round which
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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