England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
an institution as Leicester’s Hospital at Warwick seems indeed to exist
primarily for the sake of its spectacular effect upon the American
tourists, who, with the dozen rheumatic old soldiers maintained in
affluence there, constitute its principal _clientèle_.
The American tourist usually comes straight to this quarter of
England—chiefly for the purpose of paying his respects to the
birthplace of Shakespeare. Being here, he comes to Warwick to see
the castle; and being at Warwick, he comes to see the odd little
theatrical-looking refuge for superannuated warriors which lurks in
the shadow of one of the old gate-towers. Every one will remember
Hawthorne’s account of the place, which has left no touch of charming
taste to be added to any reference to it. The hospital struck me
as a little museum kept up for the amusement and confusion of those
enquiring Occidentals who are used to seeing charity more dryly and
practically administered. The old hospitallers—I am not sure, after
all, whether they are necessarily soldiers, but some of them happen
to be—are at once the curiosities and the keepers. They sit on benches
outside of their door, at the receipt of custom, all neatly brushed and
darned and ready to do you the honours. They are only twelve in number,
but their picturesque dwelling, perched upon the old city rampart
and full of dusky little courts, cross-timbered gable-ends and deeply
sunken lattices, seems a wonderfully elaborate piece of machinery for
its humble purpose. Each of the old gentlemen must be provided with a
wife or “housekeeper;” each of them has a dusky parlour of his own, and
they pass their latter days in their scoured and polished little refuge
as softly and honourably as a company of retired lawgivers or pensioned
soothsayers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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