England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
it has been analysed and organised and made one of the exact sciences.
You perceive that it has occupied for a long time a foremost place
among administrative questions, and has received all the light that
experience and practice can throw upon it. Is there in this perception
more of a lightened or more of an added weight for the brooding
consciousness? Truly there are aspects of England at which one can but
darkly stare.
[Illustration: A FACTORY TOWN AT NIGHT]
I left town a short time before Christmas and went to spend the
festive season in the North, in a part of the country with which I was
unacquainted. It was quite possible to absent one’s self from London
without a sense of sacrifice, for the charms of the capital during the
last several weeks have been obscured by peculiarly vile weather. It
is of course a very old story that London is foggy, and this simple
statement raises no blush on the face of nature as we see it here. But
there are fogs and fogs, and the folds of the black mantle have been
during the present winter intolerably thick. The thickness that draws
down and absorbs the smoke of the housetops, causes it to hang about
the streets in impenetrable density, forces it into one’s eyes and
down one’s throat, so that one is half-blinded and quite sickened—this
form of the particular plague has been much more frequent than usual.
Just before Christmas, too, there was a heavy snow-storm, and even a
tolerably light fall of snow has London quite at its mercy. The emblem
of purity is almost immediately converted into a sticky, lead-coloured
mush, the cabs skulk out of sight or take up their stations before
the lurid windows of a public-house, which glares through the sleety
darkness at the desperate wayfarer with an air of vulgar bravado. For
recovery of one’s nervous balance the only course was flight—flight
to the country and the confinement of one’s vision to the large
area of one of those admirable homes which at this season overflow
with hospitality and good cheer. By this means the readjustment is
effectually brought about—these are conditions that you cordially
appreciate. Of all the great things that the English have invented and
made a part of the credit of the national character, the most perfect,
the most characteristic, the one they have mastered most completely
in all its details, so that it has become a compendious illustration
of their social genius and their manners, is the well-appointed,
well-administered, well-filled country-house. The grateful stranger
makes these reflections—and others besides—as he wanders about in the
beautiful library of such a dwelling, of an inclement winter afternoon,
just at the hour when six o’clock tea is impending. Such a place
and such a time abound in agreeable episodes; but I suspect that the
episode from which, a fortnight ago, I received the most ineffaceable
impression was but indirectly connected with the charms of a luxurious
fireside.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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