England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
I have just been spending a couple of days at a well-known resort
upon the Kentish coast, and though such an exploit is by no means
unprecedented, yet, as to the truly observing mind no opportunity
is altogether void and no impressions are wholly valueless, I have
it on my conscience to make a note of my excursion. Superficially
speaking, it was wanting in originality; but I am afraid that it
afforded me as much entertainment as if the idea of paying a visit to
Hastings had been an invention of my own. This is so far from being
the case that the most striking feature of the town in question is
the immense provision made there for the entertainment of visitors.
Hastings and St. Leonards, standing side by side, present a united
sea-front of more miles in length than I shall venture to compute. It
is sufficient that in going from one end of the place to the other
I had a greater sense of having taken a long, straight walk through
street scenery than I had done since I last measured the populated
length of Broadway. This is not an image that evokes any one of the
graces, and it must be confessed that the beauty of Hastings does not
reside in a soft irregularity or a rural exuberance. Like all the
larger English watering-places it is simply a little London _super
mare_. The graceful, or at least the pictorial, is always to be
found in England if one will take the trouble of looking for it; but
it must be conceded that at Hastings this element is less obtrusive
than it might be. I had heard it described as a “dull Brighton,” and
this description had been intended to dispose of the place. In fact,
however, such is the perversity of the enquiring mind, it had rather
quickened than quenched my interest. It occurred to me that it might
be as entertaining to follow out the variations of Brighton, the
possible embroideries of the theme, as it is often found to listen
to those with which some expressed musical idea is overscored by
another composer. Four or five miles of lodging-houses and hotels
staring at the sea across a “parade” adorned with iron benches, with
hand-organs and German bands, with nursemaids and British babies,
with ladies and gentlemen of leisure—looking rather embarrassed
with it and trying rather unsuccessfully to get rid of it—this is
the great feature which Brighton and Hastings have in common. At
Brighton there is a certain variety and gaiety of colour—something
suggesting crookedness and yellow paint—which gives the scene a kind
of cheerful, easy, more or less vulgar, foreign air. But Hastings is
very grey and sober and English, and indeed it is because it seemed
to me so English that I gave my best attention to it. If one is
attempting to gather impressions of a people and to learn to know them,
everything is interesting that is characteristic, quite apart from
its being beautiful. English manners are made up of such a multitude
of small details that the portrait a stranger has privately sketched
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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