England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
Madame de Saverne had eloped from France, _en plein ancien régime_,
without the occurrence between them of the least impropriety, spend
his time for so long a period; where had he his little habits and his
numerous indispensable conveniences? What was the general geography,
to express it synthetically, of the state of life of the orphaned
Clarisse, quartered with a family of which one of the sons, furiously
desirous of the girl, was, at his lost moments, a highwayman stopping
coaches in the dead of night? Over nothing in the whole fragment does
such vagueness hover as over the domestic situation, in her tender
years, of the future Madame Denis. Yet these are just the things I
should have liked to know—the things, above all, I should have liked
most to tell. Into a vision of _them_, at least, we can work ourselves;
it is exactly the sort of vision into which Rye and Winchelsea, and all
the land about, full of lurking hints and modest memories, most throws
us back. I should, in truth, have liked to lock up our novelist in our
little pavilion of inspiration, the gazebo at Rye, not letting him out
till he should quite have satisfied us.
Close beside the east gate, so close that one of its battered towers
leans heavily on the little garden, is a wonderfully perched cottage,
of which the mistress is a very celebrated lady who resorts to the
place in the intervals of an exacting profession—the scene of her
renown, I may go so far as to mention, is the theatre—for refreshment
and rest. The small grounds of this refuge, supported by the old
town-wall and the steep plunge of the great hill, have a rare position
and view. The narrow garden stretches away in the manner of a terrace
to which the top of the wall forms a low parapet; and here it is that,
when the summer days are long, the sweet old soul of all the land
seems most to hang in the air. It is almost a question indeed whether
this fine Winchelsea front, all silver-grey and ivy-green, is not even
better when making a picture itself from below than when giving you
one, with much immensity, from its brow. This picture is always your
great effect, artfully prepared by an absence of prediction, when you
take a friend over from Rye; and it would appear quite to settle the
small discussion—that may be said to come up among us so often—of which
is the happier abode. The great thing is that if you live at Rye you
have Winchelsea to show; whereas if you live at Winchelsea you have
nothing but Rye. This latter privilege I should be sorry to cry down;
but nothing can alter the fact that, to begin with, the pedestal of
Winchelsea has twice the height, by a rough measure, of that of its
neighbour; and we all know the value of an inch at the end of a nose.
Almost directly under the Winchelsea hill, crossing the little bridge
of the Brede, you pass beyond a screen of trees and take in, at the
top of the ascent, the two round towers and arch, ivied and mutilated,
but still erect, of the old main gate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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