England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
Another must have been, I confess, the somewhat depressed memory of
a visit paid a few years since to the ancient home of the Peggottys,
supposedly so “sympathetic,” but with little left, to-day, as the event
then proved, of the glamour it had worn to the fancy. Great Yarmouth,
it will be remembered, was a convenient drive from Blunderstone; but
Great Yarmouth, with its mile of cockneyfied sea-front and its overflow
of nigger minstrelsy, now strikes the wrong note so continuously that
I, for my part, became conscious, on the spot, of a chill to the spirit
of research.
This time, therefore, I have allowed that spirit its ease; and I may
perhaps intelligibly make the point I desire if I contrive to express
somehow that I have found myself, most of the month, none the less
abundantly occupied in reading a fuller sense into the lingering
sound given out, for a candid mind, by my superscription and watching
whatever it may stand for gradually flush with a stronger infusion.
It takes, in England, for that matter, no wonderful corner of the land
to make the fiddle-string vibrate. The old usual rural things do this
enough, and a part of the charm of one’s exposure to them is that they
ask one to rise to no heroics. What is the charm, after all, but just
the abyss of the familiar? The peopled fancy, the haunted memory are
themselves what pay the bill. The game can accordingly be played with
delightful economy, a thrift involving the cost of little more than a
good bicycle. The bicycle indeed, since I fall back on that admission,
may perhaps, without difficulty, be too good for the roads. Those of
the more devious kind often engender hereabouts, like the Aristotelian
tragedy, pity and terror; but almost equally with others they lead, on
many a chance, to the ruddiest, greenest hamlets. What this comes to
is saying that I have had, for many a day, the sweet sense of living,
æsthetically, at really high pressure without, as it were, drawing
on the great fund. By the great fund I mean the public show, the show
for admission to which you are charged and overcharged, made to taste
of the tree of possible disappointment. The beauty of old Suffolk in
general, and above all of the desperate depth of it from which I write,
is that these things whisk you straight out of conceivable relation to
that last danger.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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