England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
The biggest items are of course the two ruins, the great church and
its tall tower, now quite on the verge of the cliff, and the crumbled,
ivied wall of the immense cincture of the Priory. These things have
parted with almost every grace, but they still keep up the work that
they have been engaged in for centuries and that cannot better be
described than as the adding of mystery to mystery. This accumulation,
at present prodigious, is, to the brooding mind, unconscious as the
shrunken little Dunwich of to-day may be of it, the beginning and the
end of the matter. I hasten to add that it is to the brooding mind
only, and from it, that I speak. The mystery sounds for ever in the
hard, straight tide, and hangs, through the long, still summer days
and over the low, diked fields, in the soft, thick light. We play with
it as with the answerless question, the question of the spirit and
attitude, never again to be recovered, of the little city submerged.
For it _was_ a city, the main port of Suffolk, as even its poor relics
show; with a fleet of its own on the North Sea, and a big religious
house on the hill. We wonder what were then the apparent conditions
of security, and on what rough calculation a community could so build
itself out to meet its fate. It keeps one easy company here to-day
to think of the whole business as a magnificent mistake. But Mr.
Swinburne, in verses of an extraordinary poetic eloquence, quite brave
enough for whatever there may have been, glances in the right direction
much further than I can do. Read moreover, for other glances, the
“Letters of Edward FitzGerald,” Suffolk worthy and whimsical subject,
who, living hard by at Woodbridge, haunted these regions during most
of his life, and has left, in delightful pages, at the service of
the emulous visitor, the echo of every odd, quaint air they could
draw from his cracked, sweet instrument. He has paid his tribute, I
seem to remember, to the particular delicate flower—the pale Dunwich
rose—that blooms on the walls of the Priory. The emulous visitor,
only yesterday, on the most vulgar of vehicles—which, however, he is
quite aware he must choose between using and abusing—followed, in the
mellow afternoon, one of these faint hints across the land and as far
as the old, old town of Aldeburgh, the birthplace and the commemorated
“Borough” of the poet Crabbe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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