England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
As you walk along the streets, having no fellow
pedestrians to look at, you look up at the brown brick house-walls,
corroded with soot and fog, pierced with their straight stiff
window-slits, and finished, by way of a cornice, with a little black
line resembling a slice of curbstone. There is not an accessory, not a
touch of architectural fancy, not the narrowest concession to beauty.
If I were a foreigner it would make me rabid; being an Anglo-Saxon I
find in it what Thackeray found in Baker Street—a delightful proof
of English domestic virtue, of the sanctity of the British home.
There are miles and miles of these edifying monuments, and it would
seem that a city made up of them should have no claim to that larger
effectiveness of which I just now spoke. London, however, is not
made up of them; there are architectural combinations of a statelier
kind, and the impression moreover does not rest on details. London is
pictorial in spite of details—from its dark-green, misty parks, the
way the light comes down leaking and filtering from its cloud-ceiling,
and the softness and richness of tone which objects put on in such an
atmosphere as soon as they begin to recede. Nowhere is there such a
play of light and shade, such a struggle of sun and smoke, such aërial
gradations and confusions. To eyes addicted to such contemplations
this is a constant diversion, and yet this is only part of it. What
completes the effect of the place is its appeal to the feelings, made
in so many ways, but made above all by agglomerated immensity. At any
given point London looks huge; even in narrow corners you have a sense
of its hugeness, and petty places acquire a certain interest from
their being parts of so mighty a whole. Nowhere else is so much human
life gathered together, and nowhere does it press upon you with so
many suggestions. These are not all of an exhilarating kind; far from
it. But they are of every possible kind, and that is the interest of
London. Those that were most forcible during the showery Easter season
were certain of the more perplexing and depressing ones; but even with
these was mingled a brighter strain.
[Illustration: BAKER STREET]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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