England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
I walked down to Westminster Abbey on Good Friday afternoon—walked from
Piccadilly across the Green Park and through that of St. James. The
parks were densely filled with the populace—the elder people shuffling
about the walks and the poor little smutty-faced children sprawling
over the dark damp turf. When I reached the Abbey, I found a dense
group of people about the entrance, but I squeezed my way through them
and succeeded in reaching the threshold. Beyond this it was impossible
to advance, and I may add that it was not desirable. I put my nose into
the church and promptly withdrew it. The crowd was terribly compact,
and beneath the gothic arches the odour was not that of incense. I
gradually gave it up, with that very modified sense of disappointment
that one feels in London at being crowded out of a place. This is
a frequent form of philosophy, for you soon learn that there are,
selfishly speaking, too many people. Human life is cheap; your fellow
mortals are too numerous. Wherever you go you make the observation.
At the theatre, at a concert, an exhibition, a reception, you always
find that, before you arrive, there are people enough in the field.
You are a tight fit in your place, wherever you find it; you have too
many companions and competitors. You feel yourself at times in danger
of thinking meanly of the human personality; numerosity, as it were,
swallows up quality, and the perpetual sense of other elbows and knees
begets a yearning for the desert. This is the reason why the perfection
of luxury in England is to own a “park”—an artificial solitude. To
get one’s self into the middle of a few hundred acres of oak-studded
turf and to keep off the crowd by the breadth, at least, of the grassy
shade, is to enjoy a comfort which circumstances make peculiarly
precious. But I walked back through the profane pleasure-grounds of
London, in the midst of “superfluous herds,” and I found the profit
of vision that I never fail to derive from a great English assemblage.
The English are, on the whole, to my eyes so appreciably the handsomest
people in Europe—remembering always, of course, that when we talk of
the frequency of beauty anywhere we talk of a minor quantity, more
small or less small—that it takes some effort of the imagination to
believe that the appearance requires demonstration. I never see a large
number of them without feeling this impression confirmed; though I
hasten to add that I have sometimes felt it to be much shaken in the
presence of a limited group. I suspect that a great English crowd would
yield a larger percentage of _regular_ faces and tall figures than any
other. With regard to the upper class, I suppose this is generally
granted; but, with all abatements, I should extend it to the people
at large. Certainly, if the English populace strike the observer as
regular, nature, in them, must have clung hard to the higher ideal.
They are as ill-dressed as their betters are well-dressed, and their
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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