England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
garments have that sooty surface which has nothing in common with the
continental costume of labour and privation. It is the hard prose of
misery—an ugly and hopeless imitation of respectable attire. This
is especially noticeable in the battered and bedraggled bonnets of
the women, which look as if their husbands had stamped on them, in
hobnailed boots, as a hint of what may be in store for their wearers.
Then it is not too much to say that two thirds of the London faces,
as the streets present them, bear in some degree or other the traces
of alcoholic action. The proportion of flushed, empurpled, eruptive
masks is considerable; a source of depression, for the spectator,
not diminished by the fact that many of the faces thus disfigured
have evidently been planned on lines of high superficial decency. A
very large allowance is to be made, too, for the people who bear the
distinctive stamp of that physical and mental degradation which comes
from the slums and purlieus of this duskiest of modern Babylons—the
pallid, stunted, misbegotten and in every way miserable figures.
These people swarm in every London crowd, and I know of none in any
other place that suggest an equal depth of degradation. But when such
exceptions are taken the observer still notes the quantity and degree
of facial finish, the firmness of type, if not always its fineness,
the clearnesses and symmetries, the modelled brows and cheeks and
chins, the immense contribution made to his impression, above all, by
the elements of complexion and stature. The question of expression
is another matter, and one must admit at the outset, to have done
with it, that expression here in general lacks, even to strangeness,
any perceptible intensity, though it often has among the women,
and adorably among the children, an indescribable shy delicacy. I
have it at heart, however, to add that if the English are handsomer
than ourselves they are also very much uglier. Indeed I think all
the European peoples more richly ugly than the American: we are far
from producing those magnificent types of facial eccentricity which
flourish on soils socially more rank. American ugliness is on the side
of physical poverty and meanness; English on that of redundancy and
monstrosity. In America there are few grotesques; in England there are
many—and some of them have a high plastic, historic, romantic value.
III
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