England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
lofty hall, with a beautiful wooden roof, simply arched like that
of a tunnel, without columns or brackets. The place is now given up
to dust and echoes; but it looks more like a banqueting-hall than a
council-room of priests, and as you sit on the old wooden bench, which,
raised on two or three steps, runs round the base of the four walls,
you may gaze up and make out the faint ghostly traces of decorative
paint and gold upon the brown ceiling. A little patch of this has been
restored “to give an idea.” From one of the angles of the cloister you
are recommended by the verger to take a view of the great tower, which
indeed detaches itself with tremendous effect. You see it base itself
upon the roof as broadly as if it were striking roots in earth, and
then pile itself away to a height which seems to make the very swallows
dizzy as they drop from the topmost shelf. Within the cathedral you
hear a great deal, of course, about poor great Thomas A’Becket, and
the special sensation of the place is to stand on the spot where he
was murdered and look down at a small fragmentary slab which the verger
points out to you as a bit of the pavement that caught the blood-drops
of the struggle. It was late in the afternoon when I first entered the
church; there had been a service in the choir, but that was well over,
and I had the place to myself. The verger, who had some pushing-about
of benches to attend to, turned me into the locked gates and left me to
wander through the side-aisles of the choir and into the great chapel
beyond it. I say I had the place to myself; but it would be more decent
to affirm that I shared it, in particular, with another gentleman.
This personage was stretched upon a couch of stone, beneath a quaint
old canopy of wood; his hands were crossed upon his breast, and his
pointed toes rested upon a little griffin or leopard. He was a very
handsome fellow and the image of a gallant knight. His name was Edward
Plantagenet, and his sobriquet was the Black Prince. “_De la mort ne
pensai-je mye_,” he says in the beautiful inscription embossed upon the
bronze base of his image; and I too, as I stood there, lost the sense
of death in a momentary impression of personal nearness to him. One had
been further off, after all, from other famous knights. In this same
chapel, for many a year, stood the shrine of St. Thomas of Canterbury,
one of the richest and most potent in Christendom. The pavement which
lay before it has kept its place, but Henry VIII swept away everything
else in his famous short cut to reform. Becket was originally buried
in the crypt of the church; his ashes lay there for fifty years, and
it was only little by little that his martyrdom was made a “draw.”
Then he was transplanted into the Lady Chapel; every grain of his dust
became a priceless relic, and the pavement was hallowed by the knees of
pilgrims. It was on this errand of course that Chaucer’s story-telling
cavalcade came to Canterbury.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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