England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
I cannot pretend, on the other hand, that, having lingered in town, I
have found it a very odious or painful experience. Being a stranger,
I have not felt it necessary to incarcerate myself during the day
and steal abroad only under cover of the darkness—a line of conduct
imposed by public opinion, if I am to trust the social criticism
of the weekly papers (which I am far from doing), upon the native
residents who allow themselves to be overtaken by the unfashionable
season. I have indeed always held that few things are pleasanter,
during very hot weather, than to have a great city, and a large house
within it, quite to one’s self. Yet these majestic conditions have
not embellished my own metropolitan sojourn, and I have received an
impression that in London it would be rather difficult for a visitor
not having the command of a good deal of powerful machinery to find
them united. English summer weather is rarely hot enough to make it
necessary to darken one’s house and denude one’s person. The present
year has indeed in this respect been “exceptional,” as any year is,
for that matter, that one spends anywhere. But the manners of the
people are, to alien eyes, a sufficient indication that at the best
(or the worst) even the highest flights of the thermometer in the
united Kingdom betray a broken wing. People live with closed windows
in August very much as they do in January, and there is to the eye
no appreciable difference in the character—that is in the thickness
and stiffness—of their coats and boots. A “bath” in England, for the
most part, all the year round, means a little portable tin tub and a
sponge. Peaches and pears, grapes and melons, are not a more obvious
ornament of the market at midsummer than at Christmas. This matter of
peaches and melons, by the way, offers one of the best examples of
that fact to which a commentator on English manners from afar finds
himself constantly recurring, and to which he grows at last almost
ashamed of alluding—the fact that the beauty and luxury of the country,
that elaborate system known and revered all over the world as “English
comfort,” is a limited and restricted, an essentially private, affair.
I am not one of those irreverent strangers who talk of English fruit
as a rather audacious _plaisanterie_, though I could see very well what
was meant a short time since by an anecdote related to me in a tone of
contemptuous generalisation by a couple of my fellow countrywomen. They
had arrived in London in the dog-days, and, lunching at their hotel,
had asked to be served with some fruit. The hotel was of the stateliest
pattern, and they were waited upon by a functionary whose grandeur was
proportionate. This personage bowed and retired, and, after a long
delay, reappearing, placed before them with an inimitable gesture a
dish of gooseberries and currants. It appeared upon investigation that
these acrid vegetables were the only things of succulence that the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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