England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
I may do them injustice,
but consistent character in them mostly requires that they shall have
had a taste of penal servitude—that they shall have paid the penalty of
stamping on some weaker human head with those huge square heels that
are turned up to the summer sky. Actually, however, they are innocent
enough, for they are sleeping as peacefully as the most accomplished
philanthropist, and it is their look of having walked over half
England, and of being pennilessly hungry and thirsty, that constitutes
their romantic attractiveness. These six square feet of brown grass are
their present sufficiency; but how long will they sleep, whither will
they go next, and whence did they come last? You permit yourself to
wish that they might sleep for ever and go nowhere else at all.
[Illustration: THE SHIP, GREENWICH]
The month of August is so uncountenanced in London that, going a few
days since to Greenwich, that famous resort, I found it possible to
get but half a dinner. The celebrated hotel had put out its stoves
and locked up its pantry. But for this discovery I should have
mentioned the little expedition to Greenwich as a charming relief
to the monotony of a London August. Greenwich and Richmond are,
classically, the two suburban dining-places. I know not how it may be
at this time with Richmond, but the Greenwich incident brings me back
(I hope not once too often) to the element of what has lately been
called “particularism” in English pleasures. It was in obedience to
a perfectly logical argument that the Greenwich hotel had, as I say,
locked up its pantry. All well-bred people leave London after the first
week in August, _ergo_ those who remain behind are not well-bred, and
cannot therefore rise to the conception of a “fish dinner.” Why then
should we have anything ready? I had other impressions, fortunately, of
this interesting suburb, and I hasten to declare that during the period
of good-breeding the dinner at Greenwich is the most amusing of all
dinners. It begins with fish and it continues with fish: what it ends
with—except songs and speeches and affectionate partings—I hesitate to
affirm. It is a kind of mermaid reversed; for I do know, in a vague
way, that the tail of the creature is elaborately and interminably
fleshy. If it were not grossly indiscreet I should risk an allusion to
the particular banquet which was the occasion of my becoming acquainted
with the Greenwich _cuisine_. I would try to express how pleasant it
may be to sit in a company of clever and distinguished men before the
large windows that look out upon the broad brown Thames. The ships swim
by confidently, as if they were part of the entertainment and put down
in the bill; the light of the afternoon fades ever so slowly. We eat
all the fish of the sea, and wash them down with liquids that bear no
resemblance to salt water. We partake of any number of those sauces
with which, according to the French adage, one could swallow one’s
grandmother with a good conscience.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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