England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
It is doubtless owing to this habit of obtrusive and unprofitable
reverie that the sentimental tourist thinks it very fine to see the
Greenwich observatory lifting its two modest little brick towers. The
sight of this useful edifice gave me a pleasure which may at first
seem extravagant. The reason was simply that I used to see it as a
child, in woodcuts, in school geographies, and in the corners of large
maps which had a glazed, sallow surface, and which were suspended
in unexpected places, in dark halls and behind doors. The maps were
hung so high that my eyes could reach only to the lower corners, and
these corners usually contained a print of a strange-looking house
perched among trees upon a grassy bank that swept down before it with
the most engaging steepness. I used always to think of the joy it
must be to roll at one’s length down this curved incline. Close at
hand was usually something printed about something being at such and
such a number of degrees “east of Greenwich.” Why east of Greenwich?
The vague wonder that the childish mind felt on this point gave the
place a mysterious importance and seemed to put it into relation
with the difficult and fascinating parts of geography—the countries
of unintentional outline and the lonely-looking pages of the atlas.
Yet there it stood the other day, the precise point from which the
great globe is measured; there was the plain little façade with the
old-fashioned cupolas; there was the bank on which it would be so
delightful not to be able to stop running. It made me feel terribly
old to find that I was not even tempted to begin. There are indeed a
great many steep banks in Greenwich Park, which tumbles up and down in
the most adventurous fashion. It is a charming place, rather shabby and
footworn, as befits a strictly popular resort, but with a character all
its own. It is filled with magnificent foreign-looking trees, of which
I know nothing but that they have a vain appearance of being chestnuts,
planted in long, convergent avenues, with trunks of extraordinary
girth and limbs that fling a dusky shadow far over the grass; there
are plenty of benches, and there are deer as tame as sleepy children;
and from the tops of the bosky hillocks there are views of the widening
Thames and the moving ships and the two classic inns by the waterside
and the great pompous buildings, designed by Inigo Jones, of the old
Hospital, which have been despoiled of their ancient pensioners and
converted into a naval academy.
[Illustration: KENSINGTON GARDENS]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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