To any one who is familiar with it, the quiet Buckinghamshire country
where Gray lived comes to have a peculiar charm. Lower down, nearer the
Thames, the land is oppressively flat, but Burnham and Stoke are on
higher ground, broken into innumerable little undulations, with copses
in the hollows, and little lanes, meandering about for no apparent
purpose except their own pleasure. It is a gravel soil, and immemorial
excavations which indent the surfaces of all the hills and fields give a
pleasant character to the whole. The wayfarer is for ever looking down
into pits full nearly to the brim of ferns and brambles, elder plants
and young ash-suckers; the great bare sweeps of the fields, with the
rounded gravel lying thick among the thin vegetation, are broken by
little hollows full of ragwort and the brisk hardy bugloss and a dozen
other light-soil plants. Of Burnham Beeches itself it is unnecessary to
speak. The old wreathed trunks full of gaping mouths and eyes, standing
in the green twilight knee-deep in ferns, have a character that no other
trees wear, and the breaks of moorland scenery, heathery sweeps dotted
with tall fir spinnies, out of which the owls call on summer
nights--all this is true forest, and needs no praise; but the roads and
lanes themselves, with the venerable hump-backed Buckinghamshire
cottages, with houseleek and stonecrop on the roof, the moated farms,
the parks set with noble cedars, the high-shouldered barns, all these
are full of delight. The pedestrian may climb the long slope to Burnham
and gaze up its straggling red-brick street; the quaint cupola of the
church, familiar to Gray, has lately, alas! fallen before a whirlwind of
restoration, and given place to a neat spire; he may pass on to
Britwell, a house, half-grange, half-mansion, with a modern tower, where
Gray used to live with his gouty uncle, a Nimrod _emeritus_, who, too
broken to ride out, used to regale himself upon the "comfortable sound
and stink" of his hounds. The elm-girt paddocks and the tall plane-trees
must be much as they were then. By Nut Hall, with its close of ancient
walnuts, he may pass through East Burnham village, and finally descend
upon Stoke itself by West-end House, still nestling in trees, where Gray
was petted and coddled by his old aunts till he was too lazy even to go
down to Eton, which lay full in view from the brow that spread half a
mile below him. The tall chimneys of the manor, the hideous white dome
of the park, the church ivy-girt and irregular, the churchyard
surrounded by old brick walls on three sides, over which tower the
foliage of yews and cedars--all these he may see. The only memorial of
Gray, save a tablet, is the one thing which he himself would have
loathed. On a rising ground stands a huge cube of stone with marble
panels, crowned with a sarcophagus of the kind that suggests a hopeless
prisoner for ever trying to force up the lid. This was the best that
they could do for Gray!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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