Essays; Stevenson, Robert Louis, 1850-1894 -- Travel
As this excursion is a matter of some length, and, moreover, we go in
force, we have set aside our usual vehicle, the pony-cart, and ordered a
large wagonette from Lejosne’s. It has been waiting for near an hour,
while one went to pack a knapsack, and t’other hurried over his toilette
and coffee; but now it is filled from end to end with merry folk in
summer attire, the coachman cracks his whip, and amid much applause from
round the inn door off we rattle at a spanking trot. The way lies
through the forest, up hill and down dale, and by beech and pine wood, in
the cheerful morning sunshine. The English get down at all the ascents
and walk on ahead for exercise; the French are mightily entertained at
this, and keep coyly underneath the tilt. As we go we carry with us a
pleasant noise of laughter and light speech, and some one will be always
breaking out into a bar or two of opera bouffe. Before we get to the
Route Ronde here comes Desprez, the colourman from Fontainebleau,
trudging across on his weekly peddle with a case of merchandise; and it
is ‘Desprez, leave me some malachite green’; ‘Desprez, leave me so much
canvas’; ‘Desprez, leave me this, or leave me that’; M. Desprez standing
the while in the sunlight with grave face and many salutations. The next
interruption is more important. For some time back we have had the sound
of cannon in our ears; and now, a little past Franchard, we find a
mounted trooper holding a led horse, who brings the wagonette to a stand.
The artillery is practising in the Quadrilateral, it appears; passage
along the Route Ronde formally interdicted for the moment. There is
nothing for it but to draw up at the glaring cross-roads and get down to
make fun with the notorious Cocardon, the most ungainly and ill-bred dog
of all the ungainly and ill-bred dogs of Barbizon, or clamber about the
sandy banks. And meanwhile the doctor, with sun umbrella, wide Panama,
and patriarchal beard, is busy wheedling and (for aught the rest of us
know) bribing the too facile sentry. His speech is smooth and dulcet,
his manner dignified and insinuating. It is not for nothing that the
Doctor has voyaged all the world over, and speaks all languages from
French to Patagonian. He has not come borne from perilous journeys to be
thwarted by a corporal of horse. And so we soon see the soldier’s mouth
relax, and his shoulders imitate a relenting heart. ‘_En voiture_,
_Messieurs_, _Mesdames_,’ sings the Doctor; and on we go again at a good
round pace, for black care follows hard after us, and discretion prevails
not a little over valour in some timorous spirits of the party. At any
moment we may meet the sergeant, who will send us back. At any moment we
may encounter a flying shell, which will send us somewhere farther off
than Grez.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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