Essays; Stevenson, Robert Louis, 1850-1894 -- Travel
Le Monastier is the chief place of a hilly canton in Haute Loire, the
ancient Velay. As the name betokens, the town is of monastic origin; and
it still contains a towered bulk of monastery and a church of some
architectural pretensions, the seat of an arch-priest and several vicars.
It stands on the side of hill above the river Gazeille, about fifteen
miles from Le Puy, up a steep road where the wolves sometime pursue the
diligence in winter. The road, which is bound for Vivarais, passes
through the town from end to end in a single narrow street; there you may
see the fountain where women fill their pitchers; there also some old
houses with carved doors and pediment and ornamental work in iron. For
Monastier, like Maybole in Ayrshire, was a sort of country capital, where
the local aristocracy had their town mansions for the winter; and there
is a certain baron still alive and, I am told, extremely penitent, who
found means to ruin himself by high living in this village on the hills.
He certainly has claims to be considered the most remarkable spendthrift
on record. How he set about it, in a place where there are no luxuries
for sale, and where the board at the best inn comes to little more than a
shilling a day, is a problem for the wise. His son, ruined as the family
was, went as far as Paris to sow his wild oats; and so the cases of
father and son mark an epoch in the history of centralisation in France.
Not until the latter had got into the train was the work of Richelieu
complete.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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