Essays; Stevenson, Robert Louis, 1850-1894 -- Travel
A mountain valley has, at the best, a certain prison-like effect on the
imagination, but a mountain valley, an Alpine winter, and an invalid’s
weakness make up among them a prison of the most effective kind. The
roads indeed are cleared, and at least one footpath dodging up the hill;
but to these the health-seeker is rigidly confined. There are for him no
cross-cuts over the field, no following of streams, no unguided rambles
in the wood. His walks are cut and dry. In five or six different
directions he can push as far, and no farther, than his strength permits;
never deviating from the line laid down for him and beholding at each
repetition the same field of wood and snow from the same corner of the
road. This, of itself, would be a little trying to the patience in the
course of months; but to this is added, by the heaped mantle of the snow,
an almost utter absence of detail and an almost unbroken identity of
colour. Snow, it is true, is not merely white. The sun touches it with
roseate and golden lights. Its own crushed infinity of crystals, its own
richness of tiny sculpture, fills it, when regarded near at hand, with
wonderful depths of coloured shadow, and, though wintrily transformed, it
is still water, and has watery tones of blue. But, when all is said,
these fields of white and blots of crude black forest are but a trite and
staring substitute for the infinite variety and pleasantness of the
earth’s face. Even a boulder, whose front is too precipitous to have
retained the snow, seems, if you come upon it in your walk, a perfect gem
of colour, reminds you almost painfully of other places, and brings into
your head the delights of more Arcadian days—the path across the meadow,
the hazel dell, the lilies on the stream, and the scents, the colours,
and the whisper of the woods. And scents here are as rare as colours.
Unless you get a gust of kitchen in passing some hotel, you shall smell
nothing all day long but the faint and choking odour of frost. Sounds,
too, are absent: not a bird pipes, not a bough waves, in the dead,
windless atmosphere. If a sleigh goes by, the sleigh-bells ring, and
that is all; you work all winter through to no other accompaniment but
the crunching of your steps upon the frozen snow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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