Essays; Stevenson, Robert Louis, 1850-1894 -- Travel
‘The toune of Mayboll,’ says the inimitable Abercrummie, {136} ‘stands
upon an ascending ground from east to west, and lyes open to the south.
It hath one principals street, with houses upon both sides, built of
freestone; and it is beautifyed with the situation of two castles, one at
each end of this street. That on the east belongs to the Erle of
Cassilis. On the west end is a castle, which belonged sometime to the
laird of Blairquan, which is now the tolbuith, and is adorned with a
pyremide [conical roof], and a row of ballesters round it raised from the
top of the staircase, into which they have mounted a fyne clock. There
be four lanes which pass from the principall street; one is called the
Black Vennel, which is steep, declining to the south-west, and leads to a
lower street, which is far larger than the high chiefe street, and it
runs from the Kirkland to the Well Trees, in which there have been many
pretty buildings, belonging to the severall gentry of the countrey, who
were wont to resort thither in winter, and divert themselves in converse
together at their owne houses. It was once the principall street of the
town; but many of these houses of the gentry having been decayed and
ruined, it has lost much of its ancient beautie. Just opposite to this
vennel, there is another that leads north-west, from the chiefe street to
the green, which is a pleasant plott of ground, enclosed round with an
earthen wall, wherein they were wont to play football, but now at the
Gowff and byasse-bowls. The houses of this towne, on both sides of the
street, have their several gardens belonging to them; and in the lower
street there be some pretty orchards, that yield store of good fruit.’
As Patterson says, this description is near enough even to-day, and is
mighty nicely written to boot. I am bound to add, of my own experience,
that Maybole is tumbledown and dreary. Prosperous enough in reality, it
has an air of decay; and though the population has increased, a roofless
house every here and there seems to protest the contrary. The women are
more than well-favoured, and the men fine tall fellows; but they look
slipshod and dissipated. As they slouched at street corners, or stood
about gossiping in the snow, it seemed they would have been more at home
in the slums of a large city than here in a country place betwixt a
village and a town. I heard a great deal about drinking, and a great
deal about religious revivals: two things in which the Scottish character
is emphatic and most unlovely. In particular, I heard of clergymen who
were employing their time in explaining to a delighted audience the
physics of the Second Coming. It is not very likely any of us will be
asked to help. If we were, it is likely we should receive instructions
for the occasion, and that on more reliable authority. And so I can only
figure to myself a congregation truly curious in such flights of
theological fancy, as one of veteran and accomplished saints, who have
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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