Essays; Stevenson, Robert Louis, 1850-1894 -- Travel
These peasant farmers are well off nowadays, and not by any means
overworked; but somehow you always see in them the historical
representative of the serf of yore, and think not so much of present
times, which may be prosperous enough, as of the old days when the
peasant was taxed beyond possibility of payment, and lived, in Michelet’s
image, like a hare between two furrows. These very people now weeding
their patch under the broad sunset, that very man and his wife, it seems
to us, have suffered all the wrongs of France. It is they who have been
their country’s scapegoat for long ages; they who, generation after
generation, have sowed and not reaped, reaped and another has garnered;
and who have now entered into their reward, and enjoy their good things
in their turn. For the days are gone by when the Seigneur ruled and
profited. ‘Le Seigneur,’ says the old formula, ‘enferme ses manants
comme sous porte et gonds, du ciel à la terre. Tout est à lui, forêt
chenue, oiseau dans l’air, poisson dans l’eau, bête an buisson, l’onde
qui coule, la cloche dont le son au loin roule.’ Such was his old state
of sovereignty, a local god rather than a mere king. And now you may ask
yourself where he is, and look round for vestiges of my late lord, and in
all the country-side there is no trace of him but his forlorn and fallen
mansion. At the end of a long avenue, now sown with grain, in the midst
of a close full of cypresses and lilacs, ducks and crowing chanticleers
and droning bees, the old château lifts its red chimneys and peaked roofs
and turning vanes into the wind and sun. There is a glad spring bustle
in the air, perhaps, and the lilacs are all in flower, and the creepers
green about the broken balustrade: but no spring shall revive the honour
of the place. Old women of the people, little, children of the people,
saunter and gambol in the walled court or feed the ducks in the neglected
moat. Plough-horses, mighty of limb, browse in the long stables. The
dial-hand on the clock waits for some better hour. Out on the plain,
where hot sweat trickles into men’s eyes, and the spade goes in deep and
comes up slowly, perhaps the peasant may feel a movement of joy at his
heart when he thinks that these spacious chimneys are now cold, which
have so often blazed and flickered upon gay folk at supper, while he and
his hollow-eyed children watched through the night with empty bellies and
cold feet. And perhaps, as he raises his head and sees the forest lying
like a coast-line of low hills along the sea-level of the plain, perhaps
forest and château hold no unsimilar place in his affections.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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