Esto perpetua : $b Algerian studies and impressionsBelloc, Hilaire
History
Esto perpetua : $b Algerian studies and impressions
Belloc, Hilaire
Algeria -- Description and travel
When I approached him and saluted him in return, his face could be seen
inspired with a peculiar power, which, at a distance, his attitude alone
had discovered. It was not easy to be sure whether its lines were drawn
from Italy or from those rare exceptions wherein the east seems
sometimes to surpass our own race in force and dignity. His forehead was
low and very broad, his hair short, crisp, strong, and of the colour of
steel; his lips, which were thin and controlled, had in their firm
outline something of a high sadness, and his whole features recalled
those which tradition gives to the makers and destroyers of religions.
But it was his eyes that gave him so singular and (as I can still
believe though the adventure is now long past) so magical an influence.
These were in colour like the sea in March, grey-green and full of
light, or like some mountain stones which when they are polished show
the same translucent and natural hue, shining from within with vivid
changes; but, much more than their luminous colour, their expression
arrested me, for it had in it an experience of immense horizons, and
resembled that which may sometimes be caught in the eyes of birds who
have seen the earth from the heights of the sky.
I first spoke and asked him whether I was well upon the path that would
lead me under Aurès, through the pass, to the sandstone hills from whose
summits one could see the desert for which I was bound.
Whether Timgad had disturbed me, or his speech had in it that something
which at the time I feared, I cannot tell; but the very short dialogue
we had together influenced me in my loneliness for a whole day, as a
vivid dream will do. I will therefore write it down.
He rose and answered me that I was on a good path all the way, and that
there was plenty of lodging: that the road was safe, and that my map
would be an ample guide.
“From the other side of Aurès,” he said, “you will see one ridge of red
rocks beyond another. Even the furthest has some scrub upon it upon this
side, but from its summit you will see the desert, and on this side it
is easy to climb.”
MYSELF: “And how is the southern side towards the Sahara?”
HE: “It is all precipice, but from the northern side you can cast about
and find a path which creeps down the end of the ridge to an oasis of
palm-trees. These are very numerous and evident from the height. When
you reach them you will find a large river flowing towards the desert, a
great road and a railway. It is easy to return.”
All this I knew already from my reading, and from my map, but I listened
to him for the sake of the tones of his voice: these had a sort of laugh
in them when he added that I should be glad to get back to water, to
trees and to men.
MYSELF: “But there is, as you say and know, no danger on this road from
the tribes or from beasts.”
HE: “No. Very little.”
MYSELF: “What other danger can there be?”
He answered that many who saw the desert learnt more than they desired
to learn.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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