Ethnological results of the Point Barrow expedition: Ninth Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, 1887-1888, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1892, pages 3-442Murdoch, John
History
Ethnological results of the Point Barrow expedition: Ninth Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, 1887-1888, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1892, pages 3-442
Murdoch, John
Eskimos -- Alaska -- Barrow, Point, Region
The chief variation in deerskin frocks is in the trimming. All have
the hood fitted to the head and throat, with cheek and throat pieces,
and these are invariably white or light colored, even when the frock
is made of white Siberian deer skin. When possible the head of the
deer is always used for the back of the hood, as Capt. Parry observed
to be the custom at Iglulik.[N209] A plain frock is sometimes used for
rough work, hunting, etc. This has no fringe or trimming round the
hood, skirt, or wrists, the first being smoothly hemmed or bound with
deerskin and the last two left raw-edged. Fig. 56 shows such a jacket,
which is often made of very heavy winter deerskin. Most frocks,
however, have the border to the hood either of wolf or wolverine skin,
in the latter case especially having the end of the strips hanging
down like tassels under the chin. The long hairs give a certain amount
of protection to the face when walking in the wind.[N210] Instead of a
fringe the hood sometimes has three tufts of fur, one on each side and
one above.
[Footnote N209: Second Voy., p. 537.]
[Footnote N210: Compare Dall, Alaska, p. 22.]
Trimmings of edging like that above described, or of plain wolverine
fur round the skirts and wrists, are common, and the shoulder straps
rather less so. Frocks are sometimes also fringed on the skirts and
seams with little strips of deerskin, after what the Point Barrow
people called the “Kûñmûdlĭñ” fashion.[N211] Nearly all the natives
wear outer frocks of deerskin, but on great occasions elaborately made
garments of other materials are sometimes seen. Nos. 56758 [87] (Fig.
57, _a_ and _b_) and 56757 [11] (Fig. 58, _a_ and _b_) are two such
frocks. No. 56758 [87] is of mountain sheep skin, nearly white. As
shown in the diagrams (Fig. 59, _a_, _b_, _c_), the general pattern is
not unlike the type described, but there are more pieces in the hood
and several small gussets are inserted to improve the set of the
garment. The trimmings are shoulder straps, and a border round the
skirt of edging like that described above, and the seams of the throat
pieces are piped with the dark almost hairless deerskin, which sets
them off from the rest of the coat. The wrists have narrow borders of
wolf fur, and there was a wolfskin fringe to the hood, which was
removed before the garment was offered for sale.
[Footnote N211: There are several frocks so trimmed in the
National Museum, from the Mackenzie and Anderson region.]
[Illustration: FIG. 58.--Man’s frock of ermine skins, front and
back.]
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