Ethnological results of the Point Barrow expedition: Ninth Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, 1887-1888, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1892, pages 3-442Murdoch, John
History
Ethnological results of the Point Barrow expedition: Ninth Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, 1887-1888, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1892, pages 3-442
Murdoch, John
Eskimos -- Alaska -- Barrow, Point, Region
From the general fit of these garments they appear to be all made on
essentially the same pattern, probably without greater variations than
those already described. When worn by the women the material is
usually, if not always, the skin of reindeer legs, and most commonly
of the pattern of No. 56748 [136], namely, brown, with white leg
gussets. Pantaloons wholly of brown skin are quite common, especially
for everyday wear, while striped ones, like No. 74042 [1792], are much
less usual and worn specially for full dress. Children’s pantaloons
are always brown, and I have seen one pair, worn by a young lad, of
lynx skin. The two or three pairs which we saw worn by men were wholly
brown. These pantaloons of leg skin with sealskin soles are always
worn with the hair out and usually over a pair of under pantaloons of
the same shape, but made of softer skins with longer hair, which is
worn next the skin, and with stocking feet. The outer pantaloons are
discarded in summer and the inner ones only worn, the feet being
protected by sealskin waterproof boots, as already stated. The
waterproof sealskin pantaloons mentioned in the same connection do not
fit so neatly, as they are made with as few seams as possible (usually
only one, up the leg) to avoid leakage. They are sewed with the
waterproof seam, and held up round the ankle by strings, like the
waterproof boots to be described further on. This last-mentioned
garment seems to be peculiar to the Point Barrow region (including
probably Wainwright Inlet and perhaps the rest of the coast down to
Kotzebue Sound). No mention of such a complete protection against wet
is to be found in any of the published accounts of the Eskimo
elsewhere, nor are there any specimens in the Museum.[N230]
[Illustration: FIG. 73.--Patterns of woman’s pantaloons.]
[Footnote N230: Dr. Simpson’s language (op. cit., p. 243) is a
little indefinite (“The feet and legs are incased in water-tight
sealskin boots”), but probably refers to these as well as to the
knee boots. The “outside coat of the same material,” and the boots
and outside coat “made all in one, with a drawing string round the
face,” mentioned in the same place, appears to have gone wholly
out of fashion since his time. At all events, we saw neither,
though we continually saw the natives when working in the boats,
and these garments, especially the latter, could hardly have
failed to attract our attention.]
Boots and breeches united in this way so as to form pantaloons are
peculiar to the west of America, where they are universally worn from
the Mackenzie district westward and southward. We have no specimens of
women’s leg coverings from the Mackenzie district, but Petitot[N231]
describes them thus: “Le pantalon * * * fait corps avec la chaussure.”
In the east the women always wear breeches separate from the boots,
which usually differ from those of the men in their size and length,
often reaching to the hips.[N232]
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