Ethnological results of the Point Barrow expedition: Ninth Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, 1887-1888, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1892, pages 3-442Murdoch, John
History
Ethnological results of the Point Barrow expedition: Ninth Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, 1887-1888, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1892, pages 3-442
Murdoch, John
Eskimos -- Alaska -- Barrow, Point, Region
In the early spring, before it thaws enough to render waterproof boots
necessary, the surface of the snow becomes very smooth and slippery.
To enable themselves to walk on this surface without falling, the
natives make a kind of “creeper” out of strips of sealskin. These are
doubled lengthwise, and generally bent into a half-moon or horseshoe
shape, with the folded edges on the outside of the curve, sewed on the
toe and heel of the sealskin sole, as represented in Fig. 82.
PARTS OF DRESS.
_Belts (tapsĭ)._--The belt which is used to hold up the pantaloons or
breeches is simply a stout strip of skin tied round the waist. The
girdle, which is always worn outside of the frock, except when the
weather is warm or the wearer heated by exercise, is very often a
similar strap of deerskin, or perhaps wolfskin. Often, however, and
especially for full dress, the men wear a handsome belt woven from
feathers, and the women one made of wolverines’ toes. There are in the
collection two the former and one of the latter.
[Illustration: FIG. 83.--Man’s belt woven of feathers. The lower cut
shows detail of pattern. 1/4]
No. 89544 [1419] (Fig. 83_a_) has been chosen as the type of a man’s
belt. It is 35 inches long and 1 inch broad, and made of the shafts of
feathers woven into an elegant pattern, bordered on the edges with
deerskin, and terminating in a leather loop at one end and a braided
string at the other. The loop is a flat piece of skin of the bearded
seal, in which is cut a large oblong eye. The weaving begins at the
square end of the loop. The warp consists of nine long strands sewed
through the inner face of the leather so as to come out on the hinder
edge. The middle strand is of stout sinew braid, ending in a knot on
the inner side of the leather. The four on each side are of fine
cotton twine or stout thread, each two being one continuous thread
passing through the leather and out again. The woof is the shafts of
small feathers regularly woven, the first strand woven over and under,
ending over the warp, the next under and over, ending under the warp,
and so on alternately, each strand extending about one-fourth inch
beyond the outer warp-strand on each side. This makes the pattern
shown in Fig. 83_b_, a long stitch on each side, three very short ones
on each side of the middle, and a slightly longer one in the middle.
The strips of feathers forming the woof are not joined together, but
one strip is woven in as far as it will go, ending always on the inner
side of the belt, a new strip beginning where the other ends. The
shafts of black feathers, with a few of the barbs attached, are woven
into the woof at tolerably regular intervals. Each black strand starts
under the first strand of the warp, making the outer and inner of the
three short stitches on each side black. This produces a checkered
pattern along the middle of the belt (see enlarged section, Fig.
83_b_). The woof strands are driven home tightly and their ends are
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