But the worst of all is, that Europe cannot be persuaded to imitate our
railway methods. Two or three years ago I liked the European methods,
but experience has dislodged that superstition. All over the Continent
the system--to call it by an extravagant term--is sufficiently poor and
slow and clumsy, or unintelligent; but in these regards Italy and France
are entitled to the chromo. In Italy it takes more than half an hour to
buy a through ticket to Paris at Cook & Sons’ offices, there is such a
formidable amount of red tape and recording connected with the vast
transaction. Every little detail of the matter must be written down in a
set of books--your name, condition, nationality, religion, date, hour,
number of the train, and all that; and at last you get your ticket and
think you are done, but you are not; it must be carried to the station
and stamped; and even that is not the end, for if you stop over at any
point it must be stamped again or it is forfeited. And yet you save time
and trouble by going to Cook instead of to the station. Buying your
ticket does not finish your job. Your trunks must be weighed, and paid
for at about human-being rates. This takes another quarter of an hour of
your time--perhaps half an hour if you are at the tail of the
procession. You get paper checks, which are twice as easy to lose as
brass ones. You cannot secure a seat beforehand, but must take your
chances with the general rush to the train. If you have your family with
you, you may have to distribute them among several cars. There is one
annoying feature which is common all over the Continent, and that is,
that if you want to make a short journey you cannot buy your ticket
whenever you find the ticket office open, but must wait until it is
doing business for your particular train; and that only begins, as a
rule, a quarter of an hour before the train’s time of starting. The cars
are most ingeniously inconvenient, cramped, and uncomfortable, and in
Italy they are phenomenally dirty. The European “system” was devised
either by a maniac or by a person whose idea was to hamper, bother, and
exasperate the traveler in all conceivable ways and sedulously and
painstakingly discourage custom. In Italy, as far as my experience goes,
it is the custom to use the sleeping cars on the day trains and take
them off when the sun goes down. One thing is sure, anyway: if that is
not the case, it will be, presently, when they think of it. They can be
depended upon to snap up as darling an idea as that with joy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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