I kept house a few months in London, with my family, while I arranged
the matters which you were good enough to intrust me with. There were no
adventures, except that we saw the Jubilee. Afterward I was invited to
one of the Queen’s functions, which was a royal garden party. A garden
is a green and bloomy countrified stretch of land which--But you
remember the Garden of Eden; well, it is like that. The invitation
prescribed the costume that must be worn: “Morning dress with trousers.”
I was intending to wear mine, for I always wear something at garden
parties where ladies are to be present; but I was hurt by this arbitrary
note of compulsion, and did not go. All the European courts are
particular about dress, and you are not allowed to choose for yourself
in any case; you are always told exactly what you must wear; and whether
it is going to become you or not, you are not allowed to make any
changes. Yet the court taste is often bad, and sometimes even
indelicate. I was once invited to dine with an emperor when I was living
awhile in Germany, and the invitation card named the dress I must wear:
“Frock coat and black cravat.” To put it in English, that meant
swallow-tail and black cravat. It was cold weather, too, the middle of
winter; and not only that, but ladies were to be present. That was five
years ago. By this time the coat has gone out, I suppose, and you would
feel at home there if you still remember the old Eden styles.
As soon as the Jubilee was fairly over we broke up housekeeping and went
for a few days to what is called in England “an hotel.” If we could have
afforded an horse and an hackney cab we could have had an heavenly good
time flitting around on our preparation errands, and could have finished
them up briskly; but the buses are slow and they wasted many precious
hours for us. A bus is a sort of great cage on four wheels, and is six
times as strong and eleven times as heavy as the service required of it
demands--but that is the English of it. The bus aptly symbolizes the
national character. The Englishman requires that everything about him
shall be stable, strong, and permanent, except the house which he builds
to rent. His own private house is as strong as a fort. The rod which
holds up the lace curtains could hold up an hippopotamus. The three-foot
flagstaff on his bus, which supports a Union Jack the size of a
handkerchief, would still support it if it were one of the gates of
Gaza. Everything he constructs is a deal heavier and stronger than it
needs to be. He built ten miles of terraced benches to view the Jubilee
procession from, and put timber enough in them to make them a permanent
contribution to the solidities of the world--yet they were intended for
only two days’ service.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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