There are only two or three streets here in this snug pocket in the
hemlock hills, but they are handsome. When you stand at the foot of a
street and look up at the slant of it you see only block fronts of
graceful pattern, with happily broken lines and the pleasant accent of
bay projections and balconies in orderly disorder and harmonious
confusion, and always the color is fresh and cheery, various shades of
cream, with softly contrasting trimmings of white, and now and then a
touch of dim red. These blocks are all thick walled, solid, massive,
tall for this Europe; but it is the brightest and newest looking town on
the Continent, and as pretty as anybody could require. The steep hills
spring high aloft from their very back doors and are clothed densely to
their tops with hemlocks.
In Bavaria everybody is in uniform, and you wonder where the private
citizens are, but here in Bohemia the uniforms are very rare.
Occasionally one catches a glimpse of an Austrian officer, but it is
only occasionally. Uniforms are so scarce that we seem to be in a
republic. Almost the only striking figure is the Polish Jew. He is very
frequent. He is tall and of grave countenance and wears a coat that
reaches to his ankle bones, and he has a little wee curl or two in front
of each ear. He has a prosperous look, and seems to be as much respected
as anybody.
The crowds that drift along the promenade at music time twice a day are
fashionably dressed after the Parisian pattern, and they look a good
deal alike, but they speak a lot of languages which you have not
encountered before, and no ignorant person can spell their names, and
they can’t pronounce them themselves.
Marienbad--Mary’s Bath. The Mary is the Virgin. She is the patroness of
these curative springs. They try to cure everything--gout, rheumatism,
leanness, fatness, dyspepsia, and all the rest. The whole thing is the
property of a convent, and has been for six or seven hundred years.
However, there was never a boom here until a quarter of a century ago.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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