The roofs are gone, except in a few instances where they have been
restored; but the walls stand and many of the detached pillars stand
too; and the pavements have endured well, so that the streets remain
almost exactly as they were when this was a city of live beings instead
of a tomb of dead memories, with deep groovings of chariot wheels in the
flaggings, and at each crossing there are stepping stones, dotting the
roadbed like punctuation marks. At the public fountain the well curbs
are worn away where the women rested their water jugs while they swapped
the gossip of the town; and at nearly every corner is a groggery, which
in its appointments and fixtures is so amazingly like unto a family
liquor store as we know it that, venturing into one, I caught myself
looking about for the Business Men's Lunch, with a collection of greasy
forks in a glass receptacle, a crock of pretzels on the counter, and a
sign over the bar reading: No Checks Cashed--This Means You!
In the floors the mosaics are as fresh as though newly applied; and the
ribald and libelous Latin, which disappointed litigants carved on the
stones at the back of the law court, looks as though it might have been
scored there last week--certainly not further back than the week before
that. A great many of the wall paintings in the interiors of rich
men's homes have been preserved and some of them are fairly spicy as
to subject and text. It would seem that in these matters the ancient
Pompeiians were pretty nearly as broad-minded and liberal as the modern
Parisians are. The mural decorations I saw in certain villas were almost
suggestive enough to be acceptable matter for publication in a French
comic paper; almost, but not quite. Mr. Anthony Comstock would be an
unhappy man were he turned loose in Pompeii--unhappy for a spell, but
after that exceedingly busy.
We lingered on, looking and marveling, and betweenwhiles wondering
whether our automobile's hacking cough had got any better by resting,
until the sun went down and the twilight came. Following the guidebook's
advice we had seen the Colosseum in Rome by moonlight. There was a full
moon on the night we went there. It came heaving up grandly, a great,
round-faced, full-cream, curdy moon, rich with rennet and yellow with
butter fats; but by the time we had worked our way south to Naples a
greedy fortnight had bitten it quite away, until it was reduced to a
mere cheese rind of a moon, set up on end against the delft-blue platter
of a perfect sky. We waited until it showed its thin rim in the heavens,
and then, in the softened half-glow, with the purplish shadows deepening
between the brown-gray walls of the dead city, I just naturally turned
my imagination loose and let her soar.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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