I remember, with vivid distinctness, two individuals, one an elderly
gentleman from somewhere in the Middle West and the other, an old lady
who plainly hailed from the South. We met the old gentleman in Paris,
and the old lady some weeks later in Naples. Though the weather was
moderately warm in Paris that week he wore red woolen wristlets
down over his hands; and he wore also celluloid cuffs, which rattled
musically, with very large moss agate buttons in them; and for
ornamentation his watch chain bore a flat watch key, a secret order
badge big enough to serve as a hitching weight and a peach-stone carved
to look like a fruit basket. Everything about him suggested health
underwear, chewing tobacco and fried mush for breakfast. His whiskers
were cut after a pattern I had not seen in years and years. In my mind
such whiskers were associated with those happy and long distant days
of childhood when we yelled Supe! at a stagehand and cherished Old Cap
Collier as a model of what--if we had luck--we would be when we grew up.
By rights, he belonged in the second act of a rural Indian play, of a
generation or two ago; but here he was, wandering disconsolately through
the Louvre. He had come over to spend four months, he told us with a
heave of the breath, and he still had two months of it unspent, and he
just didn't see how he was going to live through it!
The old lady was in the great National Museum at Naples, fluttering
about like a distracted little brown hen. She was looking for the
Farnese Bull. It seemed her niece in Knoxville had told her the Farnese
Bull was the finest thing in the statuary line to be found in all Italy,
and until she had seen that, she wasn't going to see anything else.
She had got herself separated from the rest of her party and she
was wandering along about alone, seeking information regarding the
whereabouts of the Farnese Bull from smiling but uncomprehending
custodians and doorkeepers. These persons she would address at the top
of her voice. Plainly she suffered from a delusion, which is very common
among our people, that if a foreigner does not understand you when
addressed in an ordinary tone, he will surely get your meaning if you
screech at him. When we had gone some distance farther on and were in
another gallery, we could still catch the calliope-like notes of the
little old lady, as she besought some one to lead her to the Farnese
Bull.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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