As is well known Berlin abounds in pleasure palaces, so called. Enormous
places these are, where under one widespreading roof are three or four
separate restaurants of augmented size, not to mention winecellars and
beer-caves below-stairs, and a dancehall or so and a Turkish bath, and
a bar, and a skating rink, and a concert hall--and any number of private
dining rooms. The German mind invariably associates size with enjoyment.
To these establishments, after his regular dinner, the Berliner repairs
with his family, his friend or his guest. There is one especially
popular resort, a combination of restaurant and vaudeville theater,
at which one eats an excellent dinner excellently served, and between
courses witnesses the turns of a first-rate variety bill, always with
the inevitable team of American coon shouters, either in fast colors or
of the burnt-cork variety, sandwiched into the program somewhere.
In the Friedrichstrasse there is another place, called the
Admiralspalast, which is even more attractive. Here, inclosing a big,
oval-shaped ice arena, balcony after balcony rises circling to the roof.
On one of these balconies you sit, and while you dine and after you have
dined you look down on a most marvelous series of skating stunts. In
rapid and bewildering succession there are ballets on skates, solo
skating numbers, skating carnivals and skating races. Finally scenery
is slid in on runners and the whole company, in costumes grotesque and
beautiful, go through a burlesque that keeps you laughing when you
are not applauding, and admiring when you are doing neither; while
alternating lightwaves from overhead electric devices flood the picture
with shifting, shimmering tides of color. It is like seeing a Christmas
pantomime under an aurora borealis. In America we could not do these
things--at least we never have done them. Either the performance would
be poor or the provender would be highly expensive, or both. But here
the show is wonderful, and the victuals are good and not extravagantly
priced, and everybody has a bully time.
At eleven-thirty or thereabout the show at the ice palace is
over--concluding with a push-ball match between teams of husky maidens
who were apparently born on skates and raised on skates, and would not
feel natural unless they were curveting about on skates. Their skates
seem as much a part of them as tails to mermaids. It is bedtime now for
sane folks, but at this moment a certain madness which does not at all
fit in with the true German temperament descends on the crowd. Some go
upstairs to another part of the building, where there is a dancehall
called the Admiralskasino; but, to the truly swagger, one should hasten
to the Palais du Danse on the second floor of the big Metropolpalast
in the Behrenstrasse. This place opens promptly at midnight and closes
promptly at two o'clock in the morning.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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