Europe—whither bound? (Quo vadis Europa?) : $b being letters of travel from the capitals of Europe in the year 1921Graham, Stephen
History
Europe—whither bound? (Quo vadis Europa?) : $b being letters of travel from the capitals of Europe in the year 1921
Graham, Stephen
Europe -- Description and travel
An interesting diversion from politics was provided by a visit to the
Polish Theatre, where Shakespeare's "Kuplec Wenecki" was being
performed. The main interest was naturally in Shylock. The Polish
actors made very attractive Italian _signors_. Portia was a
full-bosomed Polish beauty, who, with a male voice, made a fine effect
as Doctor of Law. The Prince of Morocco and Shylock were, however,
ethnographical studies. The Moor roared and barked and cut about in
the air with his scimitar, and made the ladies scream and the audience
laugh. Shylock was deliciously over-studied. The daily life of Warsaw
was added to the grandeur of a rich Oriental merchant. Shylock's
cleverness and intellectual assurance were obscured by funniosities
such as a sing-song Potash-and-Perlmutter speech breaking into gabble,
finger-counting, and beard-stroking, lying flat in the street and
howling. But the audience appreciated this highly, and clapped only
Shylock.
It was otherwise an old-fashioned performance. The Polish stage seems
not to have developed very much. Polish literature has, however,
increased considerably, and there are many shops well stocked with new
Polish books. You seldom see a foreign book in a shop window. Russian
books seem almost entirely to have disappeared. Owing to the exchange
situation French and English books cost enormous numbers of marks.
A remarkable feature of the city's architecture today is the Russian
Cathedral, with its slate-coloured domes divested of gold and divested
of crosses, a mighty white stone building in the pride of place in the
city. Who is responsible for the damage it would be difficult to say.
Probably both Poles and Germans had something to do with it. The
Kolokolnaya is blown up. The walls of the cathedral stream externally
with pitch. Many of the frescoes inside have been damaged and the gold
ornaments taken away. It is a grand Orthodox interior, breathing the
spirit of Russia from every wall. It was regarded rather as a
calculated affront to Poland in the old days--as the Russian population
in Warsaw was not large. Now, however, a Roman Catholic altar has been
erected, chairs have been brought in. There is a holy-water basin at
the main entrance, an organ sounds forth from the choir's gallery, and
a Polish priest drones the Latin liturgy. Multitudes of Poles flock in
on Sunday morning, smiling, untroubled, unselfconscious; bowing,
kneeling on one knee, piously crossing themselves in Latin style. If
there are Russians in the congregation they make no sign. But what
they must be feeling!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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