Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy CityJones, George
History
Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy City
Jones, George
Middle East -- Description and travel
The reader has doubtless often thought that he would like to walk the
streets of the disentombed Pompeii, and has been in raptures as he
imagined himself amid its remains. Yes, but let him first imagine
himself _on the way to it_; for travelling does not give one the
power of the magic Arabian lamp. Well, let us suppose him making the
experiment of getting there. In the first place, if he does not desire
the comfort of being cheated out of four times the honest price for the
conveyance, he has to bargain at Naples--no, that is not the word--he
has to get angry, and scold and quarrel, or at least to go through
the appearance of all this, about his carriage; also about the fare
to him who drives, and to him who rides behind; and perhaps about the
price of the horses’ feed. You start at length; and, except that in
the thronged road one is in constant dread of jolts or an upset, all
goes on well for a little while; but the beggars,--here they come:
they mark the foreigner at a distance, and are really such pitiful
objects that one’s heart bleeds for them. The way up hill is occupied
by the aged, or by cripples, or by the blind with a boy to lead them:
the level spots by the more robust: and the descent by children, who
start from the side of their haggard parents, and cry “miseracordia,
famine, sickness,” till your ears tingle, and your fancy is filled
with all kinds of diseases and their associations. And the dust, the
dust! you are now off from the paved streets of Resina, and a hundred
vehicles besides your own are kicking up dust enough to satisfy the
ambition of twenty Napoleons: it settles on your new coat, and fills
your eyes, and sets you to sneezing; and still amid it all you hear
the cry of “miseracordia,” “orphans,” “famine,” “disease.” Next comes
a long level spot, and here the beggars leave you; and now start up a
dozen urchins, who seem so many Mercuries with winged feet, so rapidly
do they follow your godship as you sail along in the cloud--of dust.
They would pick your pockets, too, if they could. And now look at
them; they turn heels over head, and making a wheel of their extended
arms and legs, whirl along by your side: they make music for you by
chuckling their chin with the fist; they pick up the dust, and, rubbing
it all over their faces, then grin and wriggle, and look like so many
imps escaped up from the flames of Vesuvius: and you try in vain to
bribe them to stay behind by tossing them some money. They pick it up,
and follow you for more. At last you are at the gate of Pompeii, and
your carriage comes to a halt; but here, children, with all kinds of
deformed limbs, crawl about, and dragging themselves to your feet, call
upon you for compassion. And while you yield to pity and think you are
doing a charitable act, you are filled with horror on being informed
that, in the opinion of physicians who have examined them, their limbs
have probably been distorted thus on purpose, in order to make them
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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