Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy CityJones, George
History
Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy City
Jones, George
Middle East -- Description and travel
September 6. We stopped again, an hour or two, at the ruins, and then
commenced re-crossing the plain of Coelo-Syria, directing our course
transversely so as to strike our former route over Mount Lebanon. Had
our time permitted, we should have visited the cedars of Lebanon,
which are about half way between Balbec and Tripoli; but as the autumn
was advancing, and the Commodore was anxious to get away from this
unknown coast, the project was relinquished. Mr. Chassaud was good
enough, however, afterwards to procure some of the wood for us, and to
forward it by way of Marseilles to our wintering station at Mahon. I
have had my portion of it cut into veneers, which are greatly admired
by cabinet makers, both for the color and odour of the wood; the
interior of the block is of a golden yellow color, and some portions,
which are sprinkled over with small black specks or knots, are very
beautiful. The number of the old trees has been gradually diminishing
since the mountain first began to be visited by travellers, and but
seven or eight are now remaining. The largest of these are ninety feet
in height, and they have in one or two cases a circumference of forty
feet; which, however, like that of the great chestnut on Mount Etna,
is not the circuit of a single tree, but of the generation that has
grown around the original trunk. The natives have an annual religious
festival beneath these venerable fathers of the forest. There are
groves of a younger growth around these, containing altogether about
400 trees. A fine large tree of this species may be seen in the garden
of plants at Paris; and in Mr. Prince’s garden at Flushing is a young
one also, in a flourishing condition.
About half way across the plain, we came to another large fountain, and
smaller ones occurred at intervals; but the ride was wearisome enough:
in the whole distance we passed not a house, nor a tree, nor a speck
of cultivation; a withering and blighting influence has been for ages
upon all this region. About three o’clock, we reached the village of
Zahle, at the foot of Lebanon. It has rather a modern appearance,
having grown up lately in consequence of some violence and exactions
on the other side of the plain, from which the inhabitants have taken
refuge under the wing of the princes of Lebanon. It is quite refreshing
to an American traveller to see a modern town, and this of Zahle is
also particularly pleasing from its situation. It is built on unequal,
broken ground, and is bordered on one side by a deep, shaded ravine,
along the bottom of which dashes a torrent, singing and making melody
in its joyful course. We found near its banks a convenient spot for
satisfying our now ravenous appetites, and then, although we had no
ruins to inspect afterwards, we again sought the reviving effects of a
nap.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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