So adieu to Cairo! Our attendants had been rewarded with “beckshishes,” or presents, in return for their own services, and for the use of the horses; the Cavasses and Chaouishes had been paid; the city, I believe, was at peace with us, and we had received much pleasure in it; and now, stepping from the gardens into our boats, we began to drop down the stream, Mr. Gliddon and Mr. Trail were kind enough to accompany us as far as the Barage, where we came to for the night, and where, in the morning, they went with us to examine this stupendous undertaking. To both of these gentlemen we owe many thanks, and to the former in particular, though far off, we all bear grateful hearts. “Two weeks’ residence in the same house,” (I take the liberty of copying from the Commodore’s private journal,) “and constant communication, with his amenity of manners, and his devotion to our comforts, and to render our visit pleasant, had greatly attached all to him; he planned our excursions, and took the trouble to provide the means to enable us to effect them; and to him we are indebted for having obtained views of every thing in and about Cairo worthy of attention. We shall never forget the very happy time we passed at Cairo under his hospitable roof. It was therefore with the deepest regret that we bid him adieu, and saw him leap to the shore, amid three hearty cheers from us all. May he prosper in all his undertakings, and be happy!” CHAPTER X. Return to Alexandria. Ruins about that city. Pompey’s pillar. Cleopatra’s needles. Modern improvements in Alexandria. Arsenal. Harbor of Alexandria. Rail road to Suez. New law for protecting his subjects. Presentation to the Pasha. Description of his person. Our return to Atf occupied four days, one day more than our voyage up the stream; as the wind still blew strong from the northward during the day, our progress was chiefly during the night, when we took advantage of the lull, and dropped down with the current.